How Long Does a Pond Pump Need to Be on Each Day?
A pond pump and a filter are necessary to maintain pond health. A well-maintained pond adds value to a home, and even though a large pond with fish requires more maintenance than a small pond, it is worth the extra effort, providing movement, color and a dramatic landscape element. A pond’s pump should run 24 hours each day to ensure the pond’s water circulates through the filter to keep the water clear.
Pump Function
A pond pump may be submerged in the pond’s water or sit outside the pond, depending on the pump type, but both types work in the same way. The pump uses spinning blades, known as impellers, to pull pond water through a screenlike intake and expel the water through an outlet pipe. Generally, a large pond has an external pump and a smaller pond or water garden has a submersible pump. Any kind of pump requires regular maintenance of its intake filter and screen to prevent clogging.
Pump Size
Before buying a pond pump, calculate your pond’s water capacity to determine the size of pump required to circulate all of the pond’s water through the pump every one to two hours. Formulas can help you determine your pond’s water capacity in gallons from pond measurements taken in feet. The formula for a rectangular pond is length x width x depth x 7.48 = gallons. For a circular pond, the formula is radius x radius x 3.14 x average depth x 7.48 = gallons. The formula for an irregularly shaped pond requires dividing the pond into easier-to-calculate shapes, figuring the water capacity in gallons for each of those shapes and then multiplying the total sum of those gallons by 231 instead of 7.48.
Operating Cost
A pond that has a pump or other electric equipment requires electricity, and so it will increase your monthly electric cost. Some pumps cost less to operate than other pumps. Reduce the cost of pump operation by using a pump that moves the necessary amount of pond water while using the least amount watts; a watt is a measurement of electrical usage. Calculate the cost of operating a pump by using this formula: Divide the watts by 1,000, and then multiply that figure by 24 hours, the number of days per operation and electricity cost. An example is: 300 watts/1000 x 24 hours x 30 days x 0.08 for electricity cost = $17.28 as the cost to run the pump for 30 days.
Other Considerations
Mosquitoes can be a problem when a pond is in the landscape, but mosquitoes lay eggs in only stagnant water. A pump can keep the pond water moving, deterring mosquitoes from laying eggs in the water. Even a small amount of moving water can prevent mosquitoes from laying eggs. So if a pump is not feasible, add a fountain bubbler to keep water moving.
How Many Watts Would a 2.5 HP Pump Use?
A pump helps circulate and filter the water in a pool. A pump’s horsepower determines how quickly the pump can process all the water. The goal is for the pump to sufficiently filter all the water in an 8 to 10 hour period, according to Aquascapes. Depending on the size and volume of your pool, you will need more or less horsepower to filter the water in that ideal time frame. Horsepower can be converted to watts, giving you a guesstimate of what your energy costs might be to run your pump.
Math Conversions
One horsepower is equal to 745.7 watts. When you multiply 745.7 watts by 2.5 hp, you get 1,864.25 watts. Energy costs are calculated in kilowatt-hours, and to get kilowatt-hours, you multiply watts by hours and divide by 1,000. So, if you run your pool pump for 8 hours in one day, 1,864.25 multiplied by 8 and divided by 1,000 equals 14.9 kilowatt-hours. If you run your pump every day for an average of 30 days per month — 30 multiplied by 14.9 — your pump uses 447 kilowatt-hours in a month.
How to Prepare Your Pond for the Spring!
How to prepare your pond for the Spring!
Not all water features require an annual cleanout. If there is a layer of muck at the bottom of the pond and the water is dark in color, it would be a good idea to do a full clean-out. If there is just a small amount of debris that you can stir up and capture with a net and the water looks clear, a little tidying up and small water change is all that’s in order.
The best time to perform a pond clean-out is before the water temperature in the pond goes above 55º F.
Here’s what you’ll need to get started:
- A clean-out pump with approximately 25 ft. of discharge hose.
- A high-pressure nozzle for your garden hose, or a power washer.
- Garden shears for trimming plants.
- A large plastic bin or container to hold fish and any other critters you find during the clean-out.
- Buckets to collect leaves and debris
- A fish net.
- Aquascape Pond Detoxifier™ water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramines prior to putting fish back.
- Aquascape fertilizer tabs.
The first step is to drain the Pond or Pondless® Waterfall
- Place the clean-out pump in the deepest point of the pond or in the Pondless® Waterfall Vault or Snorkel in order to remove the water.
- Drain the water into the surrounding landscape. Be sure to relocate the pipe two or three times to allow the water to seep into the ground and not flood the yard.
- If you have fish, use some of this pond water to fill up the holding pool. The fish can be removed from the pond using a net once the water is around knee-high so you can easily catch them.
- Don’t keep the fish in the holding pool for more than several hours. Keep them in a shady spot with a net over the top of the pool to prevent them from jumping out. If your have a winter aerator or bubbler, you can use it in the holding pool to help oxygenate the water.
Don’t Overdo the Cleaning
- Rinse the inside of the pond. You can also use a pressure washer to help remove debris from the rocks and gravel.
- Don’t try to scrub all of the algae away. Some algae on the rocks will prove beneficial in developing your ecosystem.
- Use the gentle stream from a garden hose to rinse the rocks and gravel. Start at the top and work your way down to the bottom. Periodically turn the clean-out pump on to remove the dirty water. You can discontinue the periodic pumping once the water rinsing down to the bottom begins to look clear. Remove the pump and begin filling the pond with the garden hose.
Cleaning the Filters
- Remove any debris from the bottom of the skimmer or Pondless Vault. This can be done by hand or by using the cleanout pump.
- Remove the media nets and filter pads from the BioFalls® filter, and rinse then off so they are free of debris.
Finally, Put Your Fish Back Into Their Clean Home!
Your pond clean-out is now done and it’s time to put your fish back into their home. Once your pond is half full, you can perform these steps to safely place your fish back in the pond:
- If you’re on city water, add Pond Detoxifer to the water so it is safe for fish.
- Dip a five-gallon bucket, or similar sized container, in the holding tank and fill it with water.
- After you’ve caught a fish, place it in the bucket and set the buckets in the clean water.
- After about 15 minutes, periodically begin splashing some pond water into the bucket.
- By now, the temperature of the pond and the bucket water should be close to the same. You are ready to spill the fish into their spring-cleaned home.
Sit back, relax and enjoy your sparkling clean water feature!
Original post from Aquascape, Inc. dated September 08, 2015.
How Does the IonGen™ Work?
™The IonGen™ G2 electronic water clarifier for Ponds, Pondless® Waterfalls and other decorative water features drastically reduces maintenance of string algae without the use of chemicals.
- Significantly decreases string algae that normally attaches to the rocks and gravel throughout the stream, waterfall, and pond.
- Now EPA Approved for maintenance of string algae.
- Not a chemical water treatment.
- Safe to be used with fish and plants
- Treats up to 25,000 gallons
- Easy to install with the included selection of fittings and no tools are required to install
- No tools required for electrical connections using easy to install quick connectors.
- Includes 15 ft of cable
- Operate the IonGen at a low ionization level (recommended 2 or 3 setting) and only raise the ionization level when needed. This prolongs the life of the Probe. When you have Koi, if you raise the setting, make sure you are testing the water for copper.
- Energy Efficient – uses less than 1 watt of energy a month
Components:
Control Panel – Touch pads allow the user to adjust the level of copper ions produced based on the condition of the water feature. A microprocessor in the Control Panel sends a signal to the Probe causing the outermost metal atoms of the Probe’s bars to lose an electron creating a positive ion. The positive ion attempts to flow from one bar to the other and is swept away by the flowing water and dispersing it into the water feature. It is recommended that the monitor panel be mounted.
The Probe – Copper/Metal bars are activated by the control panel and slowly dissolve into the water. The Probe can be installed directly in the skimmer using the Flow Chamber included with the system. Should be changed every year in the spring. If IonGen is not working check the probe as you may need to scrape the oxidation build up on the prongs or replace it if it is wore down.
Installation of the Probe – The Probe can also be installed without the flow chamber by hanging it directly into a filter with good water flow, such as the skimmer. You might like to use the IonGen G2 Probe Holder which allows installation without Flow Chamber. Straps onto any pipe from 1 to 4 inches in diameter and can be attach to the Check Valve. This allows you to have good water flow for the efficient use of the IonGen.. The Probe is replaceable and will last typically about one season, depending on usage. The Control Panel will read 00 when the Probe is completely exhausted or if there is a fault in the operation of the system.
Troubleshooting and Questions
- To adjust the amount of ions – manually raise or lower the ionization level using the + and – buttons.
- Full ionization power will exhaust the probe at a faster rate and may cause copper levels to raise which is not healthy for Koi. Keep level around 3.
- Larger ponds or ponds with poor water conditions will take a longer time to achieve the desired results.
- When using in a pond, you still must use a beneficial bacteria to keep the balance in your pond. This item does not clear green water.
The Importance of Understanding Alkalinity to the success of the IonGen™
- A good range of alkalinity level is between 100-250 mg/L (ppm)
- Copper ions become ineffective if the alkalinity is about 250 mg/L (ppm)
- To reduce alkalinity if it is too high is to do a partial water change. Use your alkalinity test kit to make sure the tap water falls between the good Alkalinity range of 100-250 mg/L (ppm)
- If you have fish, do not operate below 100 mg/L (ppm)!
- Note, baking soda is an easy way to raise low alkalinity levels. Adding 1/4 cup per 1,000 gallons will typically raise it by 10 mg/L (ppm). Should be conduced over a period of days.
- High evaporation can change the alkalinity to a higher rate and continue to elevate as the minerals are left behind and additional minerals are added with the new water used to top off the water feature.
- Too high of alkalinity may be a reason why you don’t see results with ionization or had good results, but then you will notice it decline later in the season. To reduce alkalinity if it gets too high is conduct a partial water change.
Why is the ionization light flashing green? or Why can’t I raise the ionization level to full power in the panel?
This is typically related to insufficient water flow across the probe or insufficient water conductivity. Never operate the IonGen at full power when you have fish.
Solution:
1. Make sure the probe is receiving enough water flow. Try moving the probe around in the filter to increase the flow. If installed directly in the line, there will be more than enough flow.
2. Inspect the probe and remove debris or scrape away scale build up. Bluish green scale indicates insufficient water flow in the location.
Why can’t I raise the ionization level to full power?
G1 solution (panel with bars) – Make sure the red dot on the top of the probe cap is orientated in line with the direction of the water flow. This will maximize the distribution of ions into the flow of water.
Conductivity in the water may be too low – Verify you have enough flow and inspect the probe. Still have flashing light or can’t raise the ionization level, you may need to increase the conductivity of the water. Add a small quantity of Pond Salt (1/2 cup per 100 gallons) to the water. This raises the conductivity and provides the Control Panel the ability to increase the activation and release of ions. This method also will increase the rate at which the Probe exhausts.
Lower the ionization levels once desired results are achieved. This prolongs life of probe and makes sure copper level does not exceed 0.25 ppm.
Unnecessarily maintaining the IonGen at full ionization power will exhaust the probe at a faster rate and could be harmful to your fish.
Periodically test the copper level in the water to make sure it does not exceed 0.25 ppm.
Why does my water appear to be stained brown or brownish-green?
This is more than likely the result of organic debris decomposing in the water feature.
Suggestions for clearing the water:
1. Use a debris net to physically remove organic matter from the bottom of the pond.
2. Rapid Clear Flocculent clears cloudy or discolored water. Use in conjunction with Rapid Clear Fine Filter Pad.
3. SAB Stream and Pond Clean contains bacteria and enzymes to help speed up and complete the bread down of organic debris. Also incudes a powerful phosphate binder.
4. Water changes. Remember to a Pond Detoxifier when adding tap water to remove chlorine and chloramines.
Should I operate the IonGen during the Winter?
No, it is recommended to shut down the IonGen system where climates are cold in the winter. Remove the panel and store inside.
Rain Water Harvesting with the Aquascape RainXchange System
As a nation, we are focusing on preserving our environment and resources by “going green”. Protecting and preserving our most precious resource…Water.
Clean water is a necessity of all life and the easiest resource to pollute. One of the easiest ways to help save the environment is to build a rain garden. A typical rain garden slows down storm water so it has a chance to absorb in the ground. This rain garden usually looks like a flower garden planted with native plants. But the problem with this set up is that all areas of the country typically experience periods of a drought. The solution is a rain harvesting system which will not only capture the water but will store the water for future use.
Why Rainwater harvest?
- Reduce water bills including city storm sever charges
- Alleviate demand on municipal systems
- Avoid strict watering schedules
- Rainwater is extremely rich in nutrients
- Using rainwater to irrigate will reduce fertilizer use
- No chemicals are added to rainwater
Did you know?
- 1 inch of rainfall on a 1000 sq. ft. residential roof gerates 625 gallons of water that can be reused.
- That same roof in a region receiving 25 inches of annual rainfall can gerates 15,575 gallons of reuseable water.
- The average household with a 10,000 square foot lot uses up to 3,000 gallons of water weekly for landscape irrigation.
- Running a sprinkler for 2 hours can use up to 500 gallons of water.
- Rain Water Harvesting allows you to collect thousands of gallons of water anywhere, even in the Desert!
How would you reuse rainwater?
- Landscape irrigation
- Topping off water features, swimming pools and hot tubs
- Washing your car, patio or deck
- Protect property from wildfires
- Even toilet and laundry water supply
What does a Rain Xchange System Work? (Click to see video)
- Downspout Filter – Captures and removes pollutants flushed into the system during a rain event.
- Connecting Pipe – Carries the water via gravity, to the modular storage basin.
- Modular Storage Basin – Modular design can be configured to fit a wide variety of applications and settings. EPDM rubber membrane creates a water-tight basin.
- Snorkel Vault™ & Centipede® Module – Optimum water utilization within the sytem and a convenient access point for yearly maintenance and cleaning.
- Overflow Infiltration – Excess rainwater is sent to a storage area that facilitates the infiltration of water into deeper soils and aquifers.
- Biological Filtration – Beneficial bacteria and enzymes reduce organic waste and pollutants to less toxic substances that can be absorbed by plants.
- Aquatic Plants – Providing food and shelter for a great number of birds, insects and amphibians and the cornerstone for maintaining biodiversity.
- Irrigation System – Natural water is located with mocronutrients and compounds that will make plants flourish.
What type of materials are needed to create a rain harvest system?
- Filter Basin – captures and removes pollutants flushed into system during a rain event
- 45 mil Liner and underlayment
- Matrix® units stacked in the basin provide high water storage capacity
- Pipe and Plumbing Fixtures
- Wet Well
- Pump to pull harvested rainwater from the reservoir supplying pressurized water for your use.
Can I incorporate a water feature with my rain harvesting system?
Yes, there are several ways this can be accomplished.
1. Use of a permeable paver patio in combination with a fountain stone. The permeable pavers collect the water which feeds the fountain stone and allows access to the water for other irrigation purposes.
2. A pondless waterfall can use the same basin which is collecting water from the roof harvest system.
The Water Harvesting sytems have many options and sizes. Having this system professionally installed is recommend. Water storage system sizes range from 500 gallons to 3000 gallons or over.
Call us today and we will design a system to meet your specifications 877-780-1174
