Best Pond Pump Information 2021
Pumps keep the water in your pond healthy. They help evenly spread nutrients in the water to fish, plants and other aquatic life. Running water prevents stagnation and cuts down on algae and mosquitoes. Keeping the water moving ensures that oxygen levels are distributed throughout the pond. Pumps also provide power for a pond’s water features, like waterfalls and fountains.
This guide will help you learn about the best pond pumps for your garden.
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The best water pumps for your pond and its fountain or waterfall come in variety of types and styles. They include submersible, external, magnetic drive and direct drive. Each of these water garden pumps offers its own advantages.
Submersible Pumps: These pumps are designed to work while wholly submerged in water. Typically, they are installed in the deepest part of the pond. Submersible pumps can be placed either directly into your pond or in a skimmer box or pond vault.
- Easy to install.
- Work well in environments that capitalize on a natural setting.
- No need to camouflage the pump.
- Run very quietly so there’s no distracting noise in your garden.
- Submersible pumps can be used to drain your pond, if needed.
- Range in pumping size from 50 to 5,000 gallons per hour.
- Can generate higher energy costs than other pump types.
- For smaller ponds, submersible pumps are generally more economical.
Tip: Some submersible pumps use oil to operate. If the pump seal breaks and leaks harmful oil coolant into the water, fish can be hurt or killed. If you have fish or other aquatic life in your pond, you’ll want to look for a submersible model that does not use oil.
External Pumps: External pumps can move a high volume of water, yet usually have lower energy costs than submersible pumps. They are not as quiet as submersible pumps. They should be placed in a dry location near your pond. External pumps are a lot more complicated to install. However, they are generally more reliable.
- Available as self-priming pumps able to draw their own water.
- Can be loud, disturbing the quiet of your garden.
- Work well for larger ponds that are 1,000 gallons or more.
- Offer long-lasting performance and easy repair.
- Require less routine maintenance than submersible pumps.
Tip: Pumps that are not self-priming can burn out a motor if the power shuts off momentarily and then comes back on. Protect against this by installing a check valve.
Magnetic Drive: In a magnetic-drive pump, an electrical charge creates a magnetic field that causes the magnet on the impeller to rotate and pump water. Since they have no seals to wear out, they require little maintenance. Occasionally, you will need to clean the impeller and its chamber for the most efficient operation.
- Completely sealed. Magnetic-drive pumps do not require lubrication.
- Because they don’t contain oil, magnetic-drive pumps are safer for ponds with fish, since oil leaks don’t occur.
- Don’t generate high head heights. Magnetic-drive pumps are unable to lift pond water vertically, which you might need to supply water to a fountain. They are not the best water pumps for fountains.
- Work best in cleaner environments with little or no debris.
- Highly efficient and cost-effective.
Direct Drive: Direct-drive pumps have an enclosed motor that is powered by electricity, which turns the impeller shaft.
- Achieve significant head height, so they are able to move water vertically. They are among the best water pumps for fountains and waterfalls.
- Typically more expensive to operate.
- Push water rather than pulling it.
- Not easily repaired.
Tip: Some models seal the motor in an oil-filled shell with seals around the cord and impeller shaft. These are risky to use if you have a pond stocked with fish. There is an ever-present danger of water contamination if a leak occurs. Many newer pumps, however, feature alternative lubrication that is safe for fish. Look for oil-free models if you have fish or other aquatic life in your pond.
Pond Pump Calculations
Pond Pump Features
Dividing Plants at Spring Clean Out
Your plants can be divided in the spring and, if in pots that you can lift out of the pond, you could wait till late spring if you so desire as any plant can be divided up to early August. All perennial plants such as all Pickerel, Arrow plants, Iris and any other perennial plant in your pond should be divided approximately every three years depending on how large they have become or how crowded the pot has become.
Marginal plants can be divided two ways; either you can gently pull apart the plants which will leave you with several new plants. Or you will need a knife to cut through the plant. Plants like Pickerel, arrow plants grow in a bulb type and can be easily divided. Gently tease the growing points of the plant apart and/or dividing the plants at a natural breaking point. Iris grow in a rhizone which also can be divided by pulling apart, just be careful that you get some root with each plant. Always throw away mushy or diseased sections. Trim back any old or dying leaves, old rootstock or spent flowers.
If using a knife, clean with a bleach solution before cutting other plants. Some of the bulb plants such as the Arrow plant are late to produce any growth. You will just see the bulb and if it is in a pot, just thin out. If planted in the pond, you may have to look hard for these bulbs or divide later. Iris rhizone can be divided and replanted in the pond. Iris do not need to be planted very deep and only like their rhizone wet. Most of the pickerel, rushes, iris, and arrow plant need to be on the first shelf as they are marginal plants. The second shelf is usually held for the Lilies.
Floating plants (such as parrot’s feather) and oxygenators (anacharis, hornwort) need to be trimmed also. Trim off 6 to 10 inches of the fresh growth at the top of the existing strands. Cut out the middle section of straggly growth. These cuttings will root on their own accord. Parrot’s feather can be tucked into the rock substrate to hold it in place or placed in a pot.
Lilies have two forms:
Clump-Forming Lilies and Tuber-Type Lilies.
Clump Form Lilies
The clump form will produce new baby plants at the base of the mother plant. Wash the soil off the roots and look for these delicate little plantlets at the crown of the larger plant. Gently work them a part. Mix a granular, slow release fertilizer into the soil at the bottom of the plant pocket or pot and replant the largest clump with the crown at or just above the soil surface. Soil just needs to be good clay dirt not potting soil or use aquatic soil (available at any Home Depot). Remove any ragged leaves and flower buds to save energy for root growth. Always use pebbles on top of the soil to prevent fish from disturbing the soil and fouling up the water in your pond. Believe me this can make quite a mess in your pond by turning your water brown if you do not use gravel particularly if you have large fish.!
Tuber-type Lilies
The tuber form of the water lily produces new plants off the rhizome or tuber. Find a firm piece of tuber with plenty of growth points and use a clean, sharp knife to cut off a section that is at least two inches long (three or four inches is best). It might be tempting to just snap off a chuck, but a clean cut will heal faster.
Mix granular fertilizer into fresh soil at the bottom of the plant pocket or pot and plant the tuber with the cut end against the side of the pot/pocket. Make sure growth points are at or above the soil surface, but the cut end can be below the soil. Layer pea gravel or a couple of well-placed rocks that help keep the plant in place until its new roots anchor it. Also, remove the ragged
leaves and flower buds to save the plant’s energy for root growth.
Tropical Lilies are Different
Starting out as a small, moldy looking bump at the leaf’s sinus (the point where the two lobes of the leaf meet), a tiny plant clone forms. Cut the stem of the parent leaf, turn it upside down on the water surface and a plantlet will grown from the leaf sinus. When roots form, the plantlet can be removed from the parent leaf, planted in a small, soil-filled pot and placed in shallow water.
As with most lilies, when young plants have four or five good-sized leaves, it can be placed in a full size pot or plant pocket and placed in deeper water.
Fertilize again with tablets as the season proceeds. Push tablets down the sides of the pot away from the plant. Continue to feed your lilies about once a month until fall.
So don’t be shy….divide and share with your friends. They are hardy plants and as long as you keep them well hydrated, it is hard to make a mistake besides you will get more bloom from a plant that has more room to grow.
Happy Dividing,
Aquascapes.com
877 780-1174
info@aquascapes.com
Facts: H2O – Oxygen in your Pond
You know that your pond needs oxygen in the water but do you know how much and how often?
Oxygenation is the process in which oxygen is diffused into the water. This process happens every time your water comes into contact with the air.
If there is no aeration in a pond, the pond cannot exchange gasses at the deeper levels of the pond and can only exchange gases at the water surface and therefore, will support only a few fish. Ponds deeper than 3 feet will benefit from a bottom aerator in the summer, especially if this pond is a koi pond.
A pond needs to absorb oxygen from the air and it also needs to release carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide among other gases.
Hydrogen sulfide is one of these gasses that contribute to breaking down organic matter in the bottom of the pond. The pond bottom has less oxygen than the upper layers of a pond.
When you use a biological filter or a fountain or have a stream, you increase the surface that is exposed to the atmosphere. Harmful gasses can be released and oxygen absorbed.
Is something wrong with my fish when they swim up near the waterfall and roll around in the area?
They are getting oxygen created by the bubbles that generated from the waterfall. This is a fix of higher concentrated oxygenated water.
But on the other hand, if you see your fish “gasping for air” at the water’s surface, “they may be lacking enough oxygen in the water”.
What is the role of plants in the oxygen supply to a pond?
Plants should only cover 50% to 60% of your pond surface. If you have too many plants in a pond and the entire surface is covered you will have very little gas exchange unless you have a very large waterfall and/or stream.
Adding submergible oxygenator plants (such as Anacharis or Hornwort) will add oxygen to the water but while they add oxygen during the daylight, they use up the available oxygen at night the same as other plant life in the pond.
Anacharis is an important submergible plant as it uses up nutrients that starve out the algae. Go to planning your pond to see how many Anacharis plants you need for your size pond.
Rarely does one overstock with oxygenators, but if in the morning you see your fish gasping for air, you may need to remove some of your oxygenators. The oxygenators may be taking too much of the oxygen over night. Removing too many at once is not good either since it may upset the balance of your pond. Remember plants remove the oxygen in the pond at night.
Oxygenators are the utility player in the roster of pond plants as they serve as a natural filter, a hiding place for fish, an algal combatant and they look good while doing it all.
Suggested oxygenators: Anacharis, Hornwort, Cabomba, Parrot Feather, and Mosiac Plant. The submerged ones create the most oxygen.
How do fish enter into the oxygen issue?
There is a limit to the number of fish that you can keep in a pond before you compromise the quality of your pond water. When you exceed this number you start having problems with water quality and fish health. Usually it is recommended to have 1 inch of fish (mature size) per 1 square foot of surface area of your pond. Stock lighter in the beginning and gradually add more fish but never stocking more than 1.5 inches to 1 square foot.
How does the temperature of my pond water affect the oxygen supply?
The hotter the water the less oxygen it can hold, therefore cold water holds much more oxygen. Using a small bubbler or aerator adds enough oxygen for most size ponds in the winter. Fish do not require a lot of oxygen in the winter because of hibernation. Warm water has a low capacity for holding oxygen, while cooler water can hold gigantic amounts of oxygen. Warm water and increased activity go hand and hand, and that increased activity means fish require more oxygen.
Stressed fish often begin to develop diseases. If you live in a very warm climate, you might consider stocking with more tropical fish like the swordtail or tilapia rather than coldwater fish.
Also if you live in a hot zone, it is sometimes advised to do a partial water exchange when you water temperature gets high (over 80 degrees). Don’t forget to dechlorinator or use a water conditioner for any city water. You can also add an additional bubbler that will increase the oxygen level of your pond.
To keep your oxygen flow at a healthy level, you need to keep a watch on the amount of plants and fish in your pond. Plants should cover no more than 60% of your pond. Remember fish will produce more fish so start with fewer fish in the beginning.
If you ever have to shut down your pump for any length of time, aeration is vitally important for the life of your fish. In hot weather, your fish could be in danger with a pump failure. It is always wise to keep a bubbler or aerator on hand just in case. In very hot climates where the water is very warm, fish can die within a few hours without oxygen.AquaForceTM Solids Handling Pump. This pump has a three year warranty and can be used for winterizing or in hot weather to provide additional oxygen to the fish. Comes in two sizes 1000 GPH, and 2000 GPH. And best of all it cost between $3.65 to $8.03 to run.
A back up pump is always a good thing to have.
A good recommendation is the
Call customer service at 877 780-1174 if you have questions.
Happy Pondering,
Aquascapes.com
Facts: About Pumps
Not many people want to be involved in the mechanics of a pump because it can be too difficult to understand. But if you learn just a little it will help you understand the living, breathing ecosystem that is your pond.
Pumps and plumbing make up the circulatory system of a water feature. More important, they supply the system with necessary oxygen and keep the water circulating.
Water garden vocabulary:
GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) is designed to protect people and pets from severe or fatal electric shocks.
GPH – Gallons per hour. Means the gallons that the pump is circulating every hour and can be referred to as rated flow. Small to average water gardens and Koi ponds need to circulate every hour with a full exchange of the water in that hour. Larger gardens every 1 1/2 hour exchange.
GPM – Gallons per minute.
Pond Volume – The amount of water in a pond.
Formula for calculating the gallons in your pond.
- Irregular Pond = length x width x average depth x 7.48
- Circular Pond gallons = 3.14 x r2 x average depth x 7.48
Head Height – The height from the surface of the pond to where the water comes into the biofalls (usually at the bottom of the unit), which means the amount of elevation change a pump can take to pump water.
TDH (Total Dynamic Head) – The combination of the total height and the total run a pump has to push. Total dynamic head refers to the pressure on a pump caused by the interactions of flow rate, pipe diameter, pipe length, elevation, and pipe material.
The other contributing factor to the size pump you will need is the width of the waterfall when it enters the pond. You will need 1500 to 2000 GPH in a pump for each foot of stream width at the entry point into the pond basin. Large systems sometimes require 3000 GPH per foot especially if you want white water.
Basically, it takes all those things into account and lets you know the limitation of your pump.
Flow Rates – The amount of water moving in a given time period.
Mag Drive – Type of pump that relies on magnetic forces to drive the impeller. Pumps a smaller amount of water than direct drive pumps, but are more efficient and usually used for fountains and small basin applications.
Direct Drive – Type of pump in which a motor drives a shaft that spins the impeller. More durable than a mag drive and usually used to provide water to a waterfall.
Watts – Electrical power consumption of a motor. Watts = volts x amps
Amps – The rate of flow of an electrical current.
Check Valve – Valve that prevents water from back flushing from the BioFalls to the skimmer where the pump is located.
PVC (poly vinyl chloride) – A common thermoplastic resin.
All of the Aquascape and AquascapePro line of pumps are made specifically for water gardens. They are submersible pumps which also need to be placed in a skimmer or wet well.
Specifications can mean the difference between a gushing waterfall and a trickle that sounds merely like a leaky faucet.
Operating Cost
Look for high efficient pumps. Obviously the bigger the pump is, the larger your operating cost per month can be. High efficiency pumps use less power.
Waterfalls and Pump size
Establishing the flow rate for your pond is probably the most important thing to do when it comes to your waterfall.
Experts say that for each foot of spillway width as it enters the basin, you should allow 1500 to 2000 GPH. For example, a 2 foot waterfall width usually requires between a 3000 gph to a 4000 gph pump.
Then, there is the waterfall and stream height to factor in and the term, shut off height, comes into play. Most people believe that a pump rated at 3000 gph will always push that amount of water. But once you subject your pump to higher waterfalls or longer streams, it will push less water. Once it hits that shut off height, you are not going to get any more water.
Call us a 877-780-1174 if you have any doubt in the size pump you may need.
Plumbing
Plumbing used with pumps is also an important part of the equation. Using the wrong plumbing can cause friction, hindering the performance of your pump and affecting the power of your waterfall.
We believe that the Flexible PVC is the best for pond projects. It will handle sharp turns and tight corners and also expands and contracts with seasonal changes.
…1.5 inch pipe has a maximum flow rate of 2200 GPH
…2 inch pipe has a maximum fow rate of 4800 GPH
So you can see that pipe selection is very important.
Check Valve
The check valve helps prevent water from back flushing into the pond when the power to your pump is cut. The reason this is important is because you need to keep water in your biological filter so that the beneficial bacteria can continue to grow. The bacteria will die in two hours without water.
Other terms
Discharge – The opening of the pump where the water is expelled.
Impeller – The part of the pump that pushes the water. It generally has fins or blades.
Shaft – The shaft is what spins the impeller. It is generally located inside the motor housing.
Motor – The motor is what drives the pump. The shaft attaches to the motor.
Impeller Housing – This is where the impeller sits and is allowed to spin.
Now you really know how that pump works.
Planning: Sizing Your Pump!
Minimize friction losses by using large diameter pipe. Determine the approximate flow rate that you want, the head height, and the total length of pipe. Consult a Friction Loss Chart to choose the proper diameter pipe.
You can calculate your total head at www.pump-world.com. You will need to know the following:
- The overall height
- The pipe run and diameter of pipe
- The maximum rated flow for the pump
The size of the pump’s suction and discharge ports DO NOT dictate your proper pipe size. Choose a pipe diameter that keeps your friction loss below about 6 feet per 100 feet of pipe. The longer your run of pipe, the more critical it is to minimize your friction loss. Normally, a minimum of 2 inch line is suggested for systems with flow rates from 30 to 50 gallons per minute or 1800 to 3000 gallons per hour.
Use a filtration system that DOES NOT require a lot of pressure. It costs MONEY to create pressure. Biological filters and BIOFALLS® filters work well and require no pressure.
Pipe Diameter Max GPH
1.5 inches……………….. 2,200
2 inch……………………… 4,800
Two 2 inch pipe……….. 9,600
3 inch……………………..10,500
Remember to consider the width of your stream when it enters the pond. You will need 1500 to 2000 GPH for each foot of stream when it comes into the pond.
NEVER run a pump dry. This will damage the seal and impeller. They are designed to pump water, not air. Insure the pump is submerged in water before you turn it on, and be sure it does not out-pump the supply.
If your pump is producing too much flow, you can reduce the flow by partially closing a valve (Ball valve) on the discharge line near its outlet (NEVER RESTRICT THE INLET). Also never restrict more than a quarter turn.
If more flow is required than a single pump can produce, use two or more pumps. This also offers the benefits of being able to vary the flow rates; this can often save a substantial amount of electricity compared to using one very large pump.
Choose a pump that can give you the required flows at the lowest possible AMP draw.
If you have any further questions, please send to info@aquascapes.com
Aquascapes.com
877 780-1174
