How To Choose The Correct Pond Pump
Choosing a pump for your pond or fountain is a crucial step to ensure you maintain proper water movement. Failure to keep the water adequately circulated can result in stagnation, algae buildup, and mosquitoes. In addition, if you have fish, plants, or other aquatic life in your pond, you must keep the water healthy by evenly distributing the oxygen levels and other nutrients.
Types of Pond Water Pumps
There are two main types of pond water pumps: submersible and external (out-of-pond), also known as centrifugal pumps. Depending on the application, each pump offers specific advantages.
Submersible Pond Pumps
Submersible pumps are designed to be fully submerged underwater at the deepest part of the pond. They are placed directly into your pond or in a skimmer box or pond vault. Submersible pumps range in size from 50 to 5,000 gallons per hour. They are easy to install and are sometimes a more economical solution for smaller ponds (up to 1000 gallons of water). They are also quiet and can also be used to drain your pond. If you have fish or other aquatic life in your pond, you may want to consider a model that does not use oil because there is a danger of the pump seal breaking and oil coolant leaking into the water.
Centrifugal Pond Pumps
External or centrifugal pond pumps are a reliable, energy-efficient option. They are installed in a dry location near your pond. External pond water pumps are suitable for larger ponds (over 1000 gallons). Compared to a submersible pump, they are typically louder and more complicated to install; however, they are easier to maintain.
When selecting a pond pump, it’s essential to keep in mind that pumps have different cord lengths. Ensure the cord is long enough to go through the pond and plugin far away from the water. Some electrical codes specify that the outlet for water features must be at least 6 feet away from the water. Therefore, it is recommended that you avoid using an extension cord. However, if you must use one, make sure it’s suitable for outdoor use and plugged into a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) so that it will immediately shut off if there is an overload.
How to Size a Fountain or Pond Pump
Pond pumps are sized by gallons per hour (GPH) at one foot of lift or height. Larger capacity pumps are rated by horsepower (HP). To determine the size pond pump, first, you need to calculate the volume of water in the pond. To calculate the volume of water in gallons, multiply the length x width x average depth x 7.5.
Water Circulation Factors
It is recommended that pond water is circulated at least once per hour. For example, if you have a 500-gallon pond, you need a pump that runs 500 gallons per hour at the discharge height. If your pond has a pressurized filter, you ideally want to turn the water approximately once every two hours. For example, if you have a 1000 gallon pond, you need a pond pump rated at a minimum of 500 GPH. If your pond has a skimmer or waterfall, the water should be turned approximately once every hour. Therefore, if you have an 1800 gallon pond, you will need an 1800 GPH rated pump.
Calculating Head and Lift Height
Two of the most critical measurements in sizing a pond or fountain pump are the maximum head height rating and maximum lift. Head height means the vertical height the pump raises water above the surface of the pond. The pond fountain pump’s top height can lift the water to is called “Maximum Head” or “Max Head.” The “Head” is measured straight up from the water level of the pond. Its length then measures any horizontal/diagonal flow, and 1’ of “Head” added per 10’ of horizontal/diagonal distance. To calculate the lift, you need to measure how far the water in your fountain has to travel from the pump’s location in your rush to the top of the fountain where the water comes out. Then you need to select a pump that lifts higher than that measurement. For example, if that distance is 24”, than you will need a fountain pump that lifts at least 36” tall. The “maximum lift” is the maximum height that the pump will raise the water.
Selecting the Proper Pond Water Pump Tubing
It is also essential to use the correct tubing size because it directly affects the pond pump’s maximum lift capability. If you use smaller tubing than specified, you will limit the pump’s maximum lift and the amount of water circulated.
Choosing the right pond water pump for your pond or fountain requires careful consideration and a little upfront research. However, doing so will go a long way toward keeping your water clean and healthy and your pump operating efficiently.
Troubleshooting Leaks in Your Pond/Pondless Waterfall
Does your pond actually have a leak?
You may not realize how much water can evaporate from a pond during the dog days of summer.
The midwestern states typically lose 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water each week. In Arizona for example, it is reported that evaporation rates are in excess of 3 inch a week.
These are averages. Some ponds may not experience evaporation levels this high, while other ponds with large pumps pushing high volumes of water or ponds with multiple waterfalls and lots of cascades and splashing on rocks, have higher evaporation rates. The larger the pump gph the more water you can lose.
Do not try to investigate a leak if the ground is wet from a rainfall.
1. The most common leak is one that is created from low edges. Here’s a little secret,99% of all leaks are not due to a hole in the liner. Settling at the pond’s edge is the most frequent cause especially in new ponds. Look around the stream and waterfall for areas that have settled. Look for wet mulch or wet gravel along the edge.
How to fix a low edge?
Simply build back up by backfilling and compacting the soil beneath the liner. Thus raising the edge of the liner above the water level.
2. Look for obstructions in the stream and waterfalls. If you have adjusted some of the rocks to improve the look you may have caused some of the water to be diverted over the liner. Also look for excessive plant or algae growth in the stream allowing water to make it over the edge. If you use Hyacinth in the biological filter, remove some occasionally as the volume of plants raises the water level and will allow some water to leak over the back or side edge of the BioFalls.
3. Can’t find the leak yet?
Shut down the pump and leave it for 12 or more hours. After 12 hours check to see if the water level has dropped. We recommend you use a small aerator to provide oxygen to the fish.
If it has dropped, you now know the leak is in the pond. If it remains the same, it is in the stream or waterfall. Read on..
If the leak is in the pond.
Leave the pump off and wait until the water level stops dropping. This could take several days. This will determine the height of the leak. If the water level stopped below the bottom of the skimmer face plate, you can rule out the skimmer and concentrate elsewhere. If the water level is above the bottom of the face plate, you should investigate the skimmer. It may have not been sealed properly or if sytem is over 5 years old, it may be time to reseal the skimmer to the liner. But don’t tear apart the skimmer face plate yet.
If the Leak is in the Skimmer.
At this point you may want to call the contractor who installed the pond. However, if you are brave enough to search further, then read on.
Investigate the skimmer face plate without disassembling it. Simple move a few rocks around the front of the skimmer and slide you hand behind the liner. Feel for wet soil around the opening of the skimmer.
—If it is dry, it is most likely not the skimmer.
–If the soil is saturated, then the face plate may NOT have been installed properly and might be the source of the leak.
–Remove the face plate, clean all of the old silicone off the liner with a plastic scrubber and refer back to the instructional manual on proper procedures for sealing the skimmer face plate to the skimmer. Use Black Silicone to seal the skimmer to the liner.
If it’s not the Skimmer.
Investigate the liner for small punctures around the perimeter of the pond where the water level has stopped.
The only way to find this type of leak is to move rocks and gravel and search by hand and eye. If the leak is found, you can fix it using the Patch Tape.
Is the leak in the Biofalls or Waterfall?
If your water level did not drop over the past 12 hours, this immediately tells you that the pond is not the source of the leak.
First, turn the pump back on and get the water flowing.
Double check that all the edges are high, and any stream liner overlaps into the pond properly. Or if you had installed with liner seams, check this area out.
Check the seal on the lip of the Biofalls. Again, simply move a few rocks and dirt if necessary to allow your hand to slide behind the liner. Feel for wet soil.
If it is dry, it is most likely not the Biofall seal to the liner.
If it is saturated, or you feel water leaking, then the lip needs to be resealed.
Cause of leaks at the Biofall seal.
1. Seal was done incorrectly or the liner was stretched or pulled too tight while setting rocks for the waterfalls. Also, after 5 years, it is possible your seal has deteriorated and needs to be taken apart and resealed.
2. Always make sure you allow some extra liner along the front of the Biofalls to prevent stress on the Biofall seal.
If necessary, reseal the Biofalls by removing the lip. Clean all of the old silicone and waterfall foam off the liner and refer back to the manual as to the proper procedure for sealing.
Still can’t find the leak!
Investigate the rest of the stream and waterfall. At this point, you should be looking for a hole in the liner.
If you have a long stream, you can divert the water using a hose and begin running water from the hose down the course 5 feet from the pond. Watch the water level, if level has not dropped then move the hose 5 feet more up the course. And you do this until you see a drop and can isolate the leak to a specified 5 foot area.
Still can’t find the leak, are you sure it was not evaporation. Just kidding, of course. It may be time to call that contractor.
Hope you find that leak!!!
Aquascapes.com
Pond Management – Spring Start Up of Your Aerators
If you turned your aerator off and stored it for the winter they are a few quick steps you can take to have your aeration system prepped and installed for the spring. If your winter has been anything like ours, spring already seems upon us.
Here’s 4 ways to prep and install your aeration system for spring.
1.) Change the air filter: The air filter is vital for providing clean air through the compressor. With a clogged air filter, performance diminishes and over time can cause irreversible damage to the compressor. We recommend changing your air filter every 3-6 months depending on the environment.
2.) Check for Air: Before installing the unit and connecting airlines it is best to do a quick check for air. Turn the unit on and ensure air is coming out of the flex hose(s). If you have a multiple diffuser plate system, make sure that the valves are not completely shut off. In the event where air is not coming from the flex hoses, you may need a maintenance kit to replace the diaphragm. Call 877 780-1174 for more information and pricing on replacement parts. Some newer diffusers are self cleaning.
3.) Reinstall the unit: To reinstall the unit, you’ll want to re-position the cabinet so it is sitting level, reconnect the airlines and plug it in. Adjust the airflow as needed, which you’ll need to do anyway if you have multiple diffuse plates. Adjust the flow so each air plate receives equal amounts of airflow and keep in mind that longer runs and deeper plates will require more airflow to operate than shallow plates and shorter lines. It usually takes a few minutes between adjustments to see the effect at the diffuser plant, so be patient!
4.) Proper start up: Introduce your aeration system slowly in the beginning, and gradually increase its running time each day. Start by running it for an hour the first day, two hours the second day, doubling the amount of time each day until you can successfully run it for 24 hours. If you run the system immediately for 24 hours upon returning it to the pond, you could cause the warm and cold layers of water to mix too quickly which may harm fish.
These quick steps will ensure your aeration system is back up and running to keep your pond clean, clear and healthy for years to come.
