How to Calculate a Pond Pump’s Electricity Cost
When we choose a backyard pond pump, one of the important things to know it how much it will cost to operate it. Most backyard pond pumps run 24 hours daily, 7 days weekly, so the electricity costs can mount up fast. It is relatively easy to find out how much it is going to cost to run your pump.
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For illustration purposes only. Based on $ 0.10 per Kilowatt Hour and 12 months continuous use. Your actual costs may vary depending on your cost per KWH, head height, tubing diameter and actual use.
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Watts divided by 1000 = Kilowatts x $ 0.10 per KWH (Kilowatt Hour) x 24 hours x 365 days.
Fish Care and Treatments
Follow these simple preventative measures:
Water Quality – The majority of issues are caused by poor water quality. Make sure the fish population is under control and don’t be afraid to do partial water changes often and consistently. The general formula for the quantity of fish in a pond is determined by the square feet of your pond and that means 1″ of mature fish per 1 square foot of garden. However, established gardens are sometimes able to handle 1.5″ to 2″ of MATURE FISH per 1 square foot of garden. Make sure when adding water or when doing a partial change that you treat the water with Pond Detoxifier to eliminate chlorine/chloramines and chelated heavy metals. Aerating pond water is also something that can potentially increase water quality dramatically. When speaking of mature fish, Koi can grow to 24 to 36 inches and most gold fish with fins get 6 to 9 inches. It takes close to five years for Koi to reach maturity.
Buy Your Fish from a Responsible Retailer – Never buy sick fish and, if possible, quarantine new fish for a few days to a week before adding them to your pond. Always ask how long the retailer has had the fish. If they have just received them in, ask the retailer to hold the fish for a few days to make sure the fish recovers from stress related to transport and new water chemistry.
Keep a Close Eye on Your Fish – If any signs of disease are seen, start using Pond Salt immediately and start feeding with medicated fish food. If things look like they are getting worse, immediately treat the pond with the appropriate treatment. The longer you wait to treat the problem, the less chance you have of saving your fish. Quarantine your sick fish.
Test Your Water – Test it yourself or have your local retailer test it for any signs of a problem. It is also important to test the water coming directly from your tap as it is increasingly common to have issues including ammonia coming directly from your water source. Click here for test kits.
Feed Your Fish a High-Quality Food – Feeding a high-quality food will not affect water quality and will ensure that your fish are getting all the vitamins and nutrients they need to maintain proper health.
Symptoms/Diagnosis/Treatments
Note Click here at TREATMENTS to see the products available to treat your sick fish. Isolating sick fish in a separate tank is the best approach since you can treat the fish more adequately and not affect the water quality.
THIS IS GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT TREATMENTS. YOU MAY HAVE TO RESEARCH FURTHER FOR THE EXACT TREATMENT YOU MAY NEED. SECURE ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FROM www.koivet.com Having access to a microscope is helpful.
Pond Salt information – Is a proven staple in the health care and maintenance of Koi. Pond salt maintained at a 0.2% solution will reduce fish stress and enhance their slime coat and will improve gill function. During periods of stress and disease, healthy gill function is disturbed. This can cause a loss of electrolytes, leading to serious health problems for fish. Pond Salt provides the essential electrolytes fish need to survive. In addition, a salt solution will do a great job at controlling certain protozoan parasites, such as Trichodina, Ich and Chilodonella. Caution: A>0.2% salt level may threaten some more tender aquatic plants.
Symptom: Erratic movement, flashing or rubbing on rocks and surfaces throughout the pond. Fish has white discoloration as if dusted with small white dots. May be flashing, like scratching gills.
Most Likely Diagnosis: Parasite Problem There are several type of parasites.
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt Treatment and Isolation
Targeted Treatment: There are several types of parasites. Removing with Tweezers is a simple solution however, there may be other types of treatments. Such as Parasite and Ich Treatment, Praziquantel Treatment, Using Medicated fish food helps.
Symptom: Growths that look like “cotton balls“. Fish may have white starburst on mouth or body. Loss of Appetite.
Most likely Diagnosis: Fungal infection
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt Treatment
Targeted Treatment: Aquascape Fungus Treatment
Symptom: Open Wounds or ulcers. Fish fins or tail has white discoloration on the edges, may be accompanied by red streaks in fins or tail. Sometimes appears as trailing slime. Fish may be lethargic or without appetite. May swim with fins or tail collapsed.
Most likely diagnosis: Could be Bacterial infection: Tail Rot, Body Slim
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt Treatment
Targeted Treatment: Ulcer & Bacterial Infection Treatment and Medicated Fish Food
Symptom: Red Streaks in the fins
Most Likely Diagnosis: Could be Bacterial Infection, Parasite Problem, Ammonia Poisoning
Solution:
General Treatment: Medicated Fish Food, Pond Salt and water change using Pond Detoxifier
Targeted Treatments: Parasite & Ich Treatment, Praziquantel Treatment, along with the general solution
Symptom: Fins appear to be rotting away
Most Likely Diagnosis: Fin Rot or Bacterial infection
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt
Targeted Treatments: Ulcer and Bacteria Treatment, Medicated Fish Food, Pond Salt
Symptom: Small white spots that look like salt stuck to the body of the fish
Most Lightly Diagnosis: Ich or Parasite problem
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt
Targeted Treatments: Parasite & Ich Treatment and Pond Salt
Symptom: Gasping at the surface of the water
Most Likely Diagnosis: Oxygen Depletion
Solution:
General Treatment: Aerate the pond & agitate the pond surface – Reduce fish load
Symptom: Bulging Eyes – hard to cure or no cure
Most Likely Diagnosis: Bacteria infection
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt
Targeted Treatments: Ulcer & Bacterial Treatment, Medicated Fish Food – Pond Salt
Symptom: Scales protruding from a swollen body like a pine cone
Most Likely Diagnosis: Dropsy – Bacterial Infection – Difficult to treat
Solution:
General Treatment: Difficult to treat: isolation and pond salt and/or treat the pond as a preventative measure
Targeted Treatment: Ulcer & Bacterial Infection Treatment and Pond Salt
Symptom: Difficulty swimming underwater floating at the surface upright
Most Likely Diagnosis: Swim Bladder Disease
Solution: If the fish is still feeding, feed fish with canned peas or Spirulina-based fish food
Symptom: Red or swollen gills
Most Likely Diagnosis: Parasite Problem
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt
Targeted Treatment: Parasite & Ich Treatment, Praziquantel Treatment & Pond Salt
Information provided by Aquascape Inc
Remember: It is sometimes best to isolate the sick fish so that you can salt the holding tank with the proper solution and treat the sick fish and not the whole pond. Remember pond plants are sensitive to salt treatments.
Also you can additionally consult: www.koivet.com
Pond Salt Dosage Rates: 2 cups = 1.0 lbs. approx.
0.1% solution uses .83 lbs. of salt per 100 gallons of water
0.2% solution uses 1.67 lbs. of salt per 100 gallons of water
0.3% solution uses 2.5 lbs. of salt per 100 gallons of water
Winterizing Your Feature
Your pond is an outdoor living ecosystem and unless you live in a part of the country where old man winter doesn’t pay you an annual visit, you will have to prepare for changes in late fall and going into winter.
PONDLESS WATERFALL
1. Leave it running. If you live where temps are mild, you can leave it running. You just need to add water to the basin as you will still have evaporation. Some people choose to run the waterfalls in the entire winter. Some caution must be taken with ponds that have long and slow-moving streams. Ice dams can form and divert the water over the side of the liner. On extremely cold days keep a watchful eye on the stream to be sure everything is running smooth.
2. Shut it down. You have two choices here:
a. If you have a check valve, disconnect the check valve from the pipe and then unplug the pump. You can leave the pump in the pond basin in warmer winter climates. Please make sure the water level is adequate to cover the pump.
b. Or remove the pump with the check valve attached from the basin. Store in water in a bucket in a frost free area.
POND
Discontinue bacteria treatments when the water temperature reaches 50 to 55 degrees. When the temperatures are 35 to 50 degrees, you can use the Cold Water Bacteria. The main reason for using bacteria is to help increase the good bacteria count so the pond will stay in balance.
What do I do with my plants?
Cut back the marginals to just below the water level and cut the lilies to 3 inches above the rhizone. Throw the summer tropicals, such as Hyacinth, into your compost pile. Clean up debris as much as you can from the bottom of the pond. Remove as many of the leaves as you can by using a small rake. Stop fertilizing your plants. For those of you in the south, we recommend you remove your tropical lilies and store them in a water-filled container located in a place that won’t freeze. Then hope for the best. Any other tropical aquatics that you intend to over-winter indoors, should be removed and brought indoors.
Netting the Pond?
In early fall, it is recommended that you use pond netting if you have leaves or pine needles that will fall into the pond. If you do not net the pond, then any material that falls into the pond will have to decompose and as it decomposes, it will produce harmful gasses throughout the winter. Look at the various sizes and types of pond netting we carry on our store.
Some pond owners will leave the net on during the winter to protect their fish from predators.
When do I stop feeding my fish and what happens to them in the winter?
Stop feeding fish at water temperatures of 55 degrees. In the spring when water reaches about 55 degrees you can begin to feed them slowly at first. Fish cannot digest food late in the season and feeding late can be detrimental to their health.
Fish will hibernate in the winter. Your fish will do just fine in 2 feet of water as long as you keep a hole in the ice to allow for gas exchange to take place. They will rest on the bottom of the pond barely moving. In the beginning of the fall season, fish need aeration so you can continue to run your pumps. Then when water temperatures reach 25 degrees and the water begins to freeze you need to add a Deicer to your pond so a hole is keep in the water for toxic gasses to escape. Any debris left in the pond will continue to decompose and produce gasses that can be harmful to the fish.
Choices for Winterizing a Pond
1. Leave the pump running. Winters can be severe and if you live in a milder climate leaving the waterfall pump running will work for you. However, if you live where you have snowfall and below freezing temperatures, you might want to pull the waterfall pump, disconnect the check valve from the pipe and install a bubbler and a deicer to keep a hole in the ice for the fish. The purpose of the DeIcer is to make sure that the toxic gasses can escape from your pond.
Winter scenes are beautiful when you are running your waterfall. Please be aware that you will have to check your water level and the ice forms on the waterfall and ice dams can block the path for water to return to the pond. Just keep an eye on it.
2. Shut Down The Pond
You will want to disconnect and pull the pump out of the skimmer. Make sure the check valve is disconnected from the pipe that runs up to the waterfall. DO NOT just unplug your pump from the check valve leaving the check valve still attached to the pipe as this will leave water in the pipe and check valve. If these components freeze and it may crack the check valve and/or the pipe. Check valve can be left attached to the waterfall pump but not to the pipe. Put the pump in the frost free area in a bucket of water. The water will keep the seals moist. A Bubbler/aerator in the pond will keep a hole in the ice till about 25 degrees. If you have fish, at this point you will need to add the Heater/DeIcer to the pond which will keep a hole in the ice so the gasses can escape.
We recommend the AquaForce Pump and the 300 watt Heater/Deicer. Click on the product and it will take you to the page. Place the bubble so that the water bubbles about 1 inch above the surface. But once the water temps drops below 30 degrees F, the heater should kick in. Place these two items far enough apart to prevent the pump from moving heated water away from the heater. When water temps are above 30 degrees, your fish, especially koi, still need some aeration which provides oxygen for them.
TIP: If you shut down your pond here’s a little tip, we recommend you remove the filter mats, lava rocks and/or Bioballs from the Waterfall Box. Clean them and store them for the spring. Saves you time in the spring and the mats will last longer.
Call us at 877 780-1174 if you have any questions.
Happy Winterizing,
Aquascapes.com
Understanding Lake Management
Not many years ago, the only products used for pond and lake management were chemicals like copper sulfate. Although you get short-term results with these products, they are Reactive in nature and will not provide long-term results when used exclusively. The problem with Reactive approach to pond management is that the longer you practice it, the less effective it becomes. Algae, poor water clarity, aquatic weeds and muck are all a result of a true problem – nutrients, and if not addressed, you will never really be happy with your pond. If left to Mother Nature, you will eventually be left with a swamp or wetland filled with aquatic weeds, algae and muck, ultimately eliminating most recreational activities. But you can stop and reverse this process by using the following products. Read on…
4-Steps to the Perfect Ecosystem
Did you know?
The first step to understanding how to maintain your pond is to know about your ponds life cycle. The Life Cycle can be broken down into two basic stages.
During Stage 1 organic matter from plants, birds, animals and debris begins to accumulate in your pond. The nutrient load is low, resulting in minimal weed and algae growth. The amount of debris your pond receives and the type of soil your pond was constructed from will determine how long your pond will stay in this stage. Generally your pond will begin to enter Stage 2 in three to five years.
As your pond begins Stage 2 excessive algae blooms and pond weeds become noticeable. Emergent plants, such as grasses and cattails, begin growing around your pond’s edge.
As Stage 2 continues the total nutrient load is increased resulting in more frequent weed and algae growth.
Every Unaerated Pond and Lake, at least 6’Deep, is Thermally Stratified?
Pond Bottom: Water is colder with lower oxygen levels and is home to most of the toxic gasses that accumulate in a pond.
Pond Surface: Water is warmer with higher oxygen levels and is home to the majority of the pond’s fish population.
PROBLEM: Thermal Stratification can contribute to high levels of muck, cloudy water and is one of the main causes of winter fish kill.
When the Airmax®: Ecosystem is not present and Mother Nature is allowed to take her course, chemical applications will be necessary during this stage.
It is important to understand that chemicals are not designed to prevent growth because they will not eliminate the nutrients that cause weeds and algae to grow. When chemicals are used correctly, they will only provide a temporary fix to weed and algae growth. The next step is aeration and bacteria.
Aeration Benefits
- Clean and clear water column
- Elimination of thermal stratification
- Reduced sediment
- Stronger and more productive fish population
- Elimination of fish kills and turnover
What is stratification?
Most ponds suffer from stratification or “layered water” during the warmer months of the year. Stratification happens when the sun heats up the water at the top of your pond. The warm water is lighter and creates a layer that floats on the cooler water underneath. The point at which these layers will separate is known as the thermocline.
In the fall and winter months, the cold air will cool the surface of your pond, causing turnover or a mixing of the surface and subsurface water. If you have ever noticed a strong sulfurous smell near your pond in the spring or fall, it is a good bet that your pond has just turned over! Severe storms can also cause this to happen.
The Airmax® Advantage
The diffuser delivers the much needed oxygen to the target zone (the nutrient rich bottom layer) creating an efficient and healthy ecosystem.
Airmax aeration systems are designed to be very low maintenance. Simply clean the air filter every 4 to 6 months. Depending upon environmental conditions, air stones may need to be cleaned every 2 to 3 years, that’s all! Some of the newer air stones are self cleaning
Lake Management – Understanding Water Quality
The bacteria currently working in your pond are mainly anaerobic, meaning they do not require oxygen to survive. Anaerobic bacteria will decompose organics at an extremely slow rate while producing by products such as a “rotten egg” smell and black muck. Anaerobic bacteria are also relatively ineffective at oxidizing nutrients suspended in the water column.
Aerobic bacteria found in Pond Clear TM require oxygen and are capable of decomposing organics at an accelerated rate. They produce no foul smelling by-products, and do not contribute to black muck. Aerobic bacteria will result in clear water and a healthy ecosystem.
Lake Management – Use of Chemicals
Aquatic Herbicides and Algaecides(chemicals) have been useful tools for pond management for decades.
Once a pond becomes infested with weeds and/or algae, a chemical application may be your best solution to gain control, at least for the short-term. The use of chemicals may be minimized or avoided when contributing factors are reduced.
The problem is an abundance of suspended nutrients and the organics (muck) that have settled to the bottom of your pond. Contributing factors can be a number of different things such as surface water runoff, grass clippings and fertilizers just to mention a few.
Some pond owners go as far as treating their ponds once a week with chemicals to manage their weed and/or algae problem. If you are in this group that is a problem! Not only is it more expensive, it is adding to your problem…every time weeds and algae are treated they fall to the bottom only to breakdown and encourage future growth.
Use chemical only as a tool in your management practice.
Chemicals are an important part of any management plan as long as they are not the entire plan. Another important consideration when treating for weeds and algae is that sudden changes to water conditions can affect the ecosystem and aquatic life.
Always remember to run your aeration system before and after chemical applications. This will increase oxygen levels and enhance the effectiveness of the application.
Call 877 780-1174 to discuss the potential treatments you may want to use for various pond weeds. We can help you decide what products you may want to use.
Airmax® Aeration to the rescue
Our aeration system utilizes a shore-mounted air pump that delivers compressed air to a synergistic diffuser plate on the pond’s bottom. As the air rises from the diffuser plate at the bottom, it creates a convection current that slowly and steadily turns the water body over. Bringing the bottom waters up to the top to interact with the atmosphere allows for some very unique processes to take place. It is this turnover and interaction that lies at the heart of the Airmax® Aeration System.
Clean and Clear Water Column
Heavy nutrient loads lay the groundwork for extreme algae blooms. The constant turnover created by the Aeration System provides an avenue for oxygen-consuming beneficial bacteria to lower nutrient loads. The increase in bacterial activity removes the food source for nuisance algae and plants.
Elimination of Thermal Stratification
The current created by the Airmax® Aeration System circulates the water eliminating the thermocline (water separated into multiple layers based on temperature). When the thermocline is eliminated, oxygen is allowed to the pond’s bottom, creating a perfect ecosystem for aerobic beneficial bacteria such as those found in PondClear™ and MuckAway™. The bacteria in these products will work to clarify the water while reducing the muck layer on the pond’s bottom.
Stronger, Safer Fish Population
In a thermally stratified state, the bottom half of your pond becomes almost uninhabitable to fish. The low oxygen and high amount of toxins drive your fish into the much warmer top half of the pond. The Airmax® Aeration System de-stratifies the water column, creating optimal conditions for fish to inhabit the entire body of water reducing the chance of fish kills caused by turn over.
Preventing Winter Fish Kill
Keeping the aerator running in colder climates (where an ice layer may form) will greatly reduce the chances of a winter fish kill. Dying or dead vegetation will cause toxic gasses to build up underneath the ice during the winter months. These toxic gasses can displace the oxygen causing a winter fish kill. Circulating the water column will also maintain an open hole in the ice, allowing the toxic gasses to safely escape.
Calculating Pond Size
Square Footage = Length X Width
Acre Feet = Surface Acres X Average Depth
To figure the Acres
Circle Shape – 3.14 X Radius X Radius divided by 43.560 which = Surface acres
Square/Rectangle – Length X Width divided by 43.560 = Surface acres
Triangle – 0.5 X Height X Base divided by 43.560 = Surface acres
Call 877 780-1174 if you have any questions or need us to figure what products you may need for your lake.
Aquascapes.com
