Best Pond Pump Information 2021
Pumps keep the water in your pond healthy. They help evenly spread nutrients in the water to fish, plants and other aquatic life. Running water prevents stagnation and cuts down on algae and mosquitoes. Keeping the water moving ensures that oxygen levels are distributed throughout the pond. Pumps also provide power for a pond’s water features, like waterfalls and fountains.
This guide will help you learn about the best pond pumps for your garden.
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The best water pumps for your pond and its fountain or waterfall come in variety of types and styles. They include submersible, external, magnetic drive and direct drive. Each of these water garden pumps offers its own advantages.
Submersible Pumps: These pumps are designed to work while wholly submerged in water. Typically, they are installed in the deepest part of the pond. Submersible pumps can be placed either directly into your pond or in a skimmer box or pond vault.
- Easy to install.
- Work well in environments that capitalize on a natural setting.
- No need to camouflage the pump.
- Run very quietly so there’s no distracting noise in your garden.
- Submersible pumps can be used to drain your pond, if needed.
- Range in pumping size from 50 to 5,000 gallons per hour.
- Can generate higher energy costs than other pump types.
- For smaller ponds, submersible pumps are generally more economical.
Tip: Some submersible pumps use oil to operate. If the pump seal breaks and leaks harmful oil coolant into the water, fish can be hurt or killed. If you have fish or other aquatic life in your pond, you’ll want to look for a submersible model that does not use oil.
External Pumps: External pumps can move a high volume of water, yet usually have lower energy costs than submersible pumps. They are not as quiet as submersible pumps. They should be placed in a dry location near your pond. External pumps are a lot more complicated to install. However, they are generally more reliable.
- Available as self-priming pumps able to draw their own water.
- Can be loud, disturbing the quiet of your garden.
- Work well for larger ponds that are 1,000 gallons or more.
- Offer long-lasting performance and easy repair.
- Require less routine maintenance than submersible pumps.
Tip: Pumps that are not self-priming can burn out a motor if the power shuts off momentarily and then comes back on. Protect against this by installing a check valve.
Magnetic Drive: In a magnetic-drive pump, an electrical charge creates a magnetic field that causes the magnet on the impeller to rotate and pump water. Since they have no seals to wear out, they require little maintenance. Occasionally, you will need to clean the impeller and its chamber for the most efficient operation.
- Completely sealed. Magnetic-drive pumps do not require lubrication.
- Because they don’t contain oil, magnetic-drive pumps are safer for ponds with fish, since oil leaks don’t occur.
- Don’t generate high head heights. Magnetic-drive pumps are unable to lift pond water vertically, which you might need to supply water to a fountain. They are not the best water pumps for fountains.
- Work best in cleaner environments with little or no debris.
- Highly efficient and cost-effective.
Direct Drive: Direct-drive pumps have an enclosed motor that is powered by electricity, which turns the impeller shaft.
- Achieve significant head height, so they are able to move water vertically. They are among the best water pumps for fountains and waterfalls.
- Typically more expensive to operate.
- Push water rather than pulling it.
- Not easily repaired.
Tip: Some models seal the motor in an oil-filled shell with seals around the cord and impeller shaft. These are risky to use if you have a pond stocked with fish. There is an ever-present danger of water contamination if a leak occurs. Many newer pumps, however, feature alternative lubrication that is safe for fish. Look for oil-free models if you have fish or other aquatic life in your pond.
Pond Pump Calculations
Pond Pump Features
Rain Water Harvesting with the Aquascape RainXchange System
As a nation, we are focusing on preserving our environment and resources by “going green”. Protecting and preserving our most precious resource…Water.
Clean water is a necessity of all life and the easiest resource to pollute. One of the easiest ways to help save the environment is to build a rain garden. A typical rain garden slows down storm water so it has a chance to absorb in the ground. This rain garden usually looks like a flower garden planted with native plants. But the problem with this set up is that all areas of the country typically experience periods of a drought. The solution is a rain harvesting system which will not only capture the water but will store the water for future use.
Why Rainwater harvest?
- Reduce water bills including city storm sever charges
- Alleviate demand on municipal systems
- Avoid strict watering schedules
- Rainwater is extremely rich in nutrients
- Using rainwater to irrigate will reduce fertilizer use
- No chemicals are added to rainwater
Did you know?
- 1 inch of rainfall on a 1000 sq. ft. residential roof gerates 625 gallons of water that can be reused.
- That same roof in a region receiving 25 inches of annual rainfall can gerates 15,575 gallons of reuseable water.
- The average household with a 10,000 square foot lot uses up to 3,000 gallons of water weekly for landscape irrigation.
- Running a sprinkler for 2 hours can use up to 500 gallons of water.
- Rain Water Harvesting allows you to collect thousands of gallons of water anywhere, even in the Desert!
How would you reuse rainwater?
- Landscape irrigation
- Topping off water features, swimming pools and hot tubs
- Washing your car, patio or deck
- Protect property from wildfires
- Even toilet and laundry water supply
What does a Rain Xchange System Work? (Click to see video)
- Downspout Filter – Captures and removes pollutants flushed into the system during a rain event.
- Connecting Pipe – Carries the water via gravity, to the modular storage basin.
- Modular Storage Basin – Modular design can be configured to fit a wide variety of applications and settings. EPDM rubber membrane creates a water-tight basin.
- Snorkel Vault™ & Centipede® Module – Optimum water utilization within the sytem and a convenient access point for yearly maintenance and cleaning.
- Overflow Infiltration – Excess rainwater is sent to a storage area that facilitates the infiltration of water into deeper soils and aquifers.
- Biological Filtration – Beneficial bacteria and enzymes reduce organic waste and pollutants to less toxic substances that can be absorbed by plants.
- Aquatic Plants – Providing food and shelter for a great number of birds, insects and amphibians and the cornerstone for maintaining biodiversity.
- Irrigation System – Natural water is located with mocronutrients and compounds that will make plants flourish.
What type of materials are needed to create a rain harvest system?
- Filter Basin – captures and removes pollutants flushed into system during a rain event
- 45 mil Liner and underlayment
- Matrix® units stacked in the basin provide high water storage capacity
- Pipe and Plumbing Fixtures
- Wet Well
- Pump to pull harvested rainwater from the reservoir supplying pressurized water for your use.
Can I incorporate a water feature with my rain harvesting system?
Yes, there are several ways this can be accomplished.
1. Use of a permeable paver patio in combination with a fountain stone. The permeable pavers collect the water which feeds the fountain stone and allows access to the water for other irrigation purposes.
2. A pondless waterfall can use the same basin which is collecting water from the roof harvest system.
The Water Harvesting sytems have many options and sizes. Having this system professionally installed is recommend. Water storage system sizes range from 500 gallons to 3000 gallons or over.
Call us today and we will design a system to meet your specifications 877-780-1174
Container Water Gardens
It’s a small world – container water gardens are the perfect fit!
What’s holding you back from digging a hole and adding a perfectly peaceful aquatic paradise to your backyard? Is it the price? The size? The uncertainty of it all? Will you even like adding water gardening to your list of outdoor hobbies? How do you make a transition into the wet and wild world of water gardening?
If you are timid about getting starting, you may choose to begin with container gardening.
For people with small backyards or a simple porch, sometimes a container garden is the only way to get their water garden to fit. For some, it can lead to the dream of a big yard and a bigger water garden. There seem to be endless ways to accomplish your first water garden. Some examples are:
Wet Rocks or Bubbling Rocks, – these rocks are drilled so that the water comes out of the top and cascades down the rock into a basin below the rock. Many installers will do these in singles and trios. When the proper selection of the rock, you can get a nice soft sound of the water. Check with your local installer for further information and ultimately a proposal. Great for a nice additional to a small landscaped area.
On the market are several types of containers. This would be a category that you would have the ability to add plants and maybe small fish to this container. Traditionally, we only saw the whiskey barrel and liner tub available but now the market offers you other options which include different sizes, shapes and colors of container, container gardening pump, and tubing. Here’s a link to the ones available from Aquascapes.
Now consider plants as they can turn any boring container into a gorgeous work of art, if you educate yourself about how to plant and which plants to use. As with any water garden there are three basic type of plants:
1. Water lilies – recommend only the pygmy water lily which still may be too big.
2. Marginal – perennial plants – which be careful to only purchase the smaller marginal plants. Suggestions are:
Variegated sweet flag, corkscrew rush, Four-leaf clover, water forget me not – Just remember to keep them small
3. Floating plants – Tropical – Water Hyacinth (my favorite) and Water Lettuce (does not like real hot climates) Great for small features.
Gold Fish are an option but remember they will grow to about 6 inches and will reproduce. They will not live through the winter in a fountain or small basin.
What equipment do I need?
You will need a container garden aerator. This is a small pump that will give a gentle turbulence to the water. You want to steer clear of still water as this is a breeding grounds for mosquitoes. Add a small amount of gravel/stones on the bottom of the container. Especially if you have added a few fish.
What kind of maintenance is required?
Maintenance is as easy or as hard as you want to make it. Many of the small containers are small enough that you may use a garden hose to top it off. And if there’s no fish, you may use it to overflow the system for severe cleaning. If debris does accumulate, you can use any of the enzyme-based products (algaecides). Sludge tablets would be a good source and our bacteria container garden tablets. Watch for evaporation and if you have fish, you may need to put a few drops of detoxifer in the water. This removes the chlorine from the water if you have fish.
Enjoy! Be careful, however, because once the water gardening bug has bitten you, there’s no going back! Next step, would be a micro pond kit, then on to a larger water garden. Well, actually, it’s best just to go to the largest water garden you can put into your location and fits your budget. We do have kits for the do-it-yourselfers but best results are locating a installer in your area. Call us at 877 780-1174 and we can help you find that contractor.
Or if just a fountain is your choice for now look at the options on our site.
Fish Care and Treatments
Follow these simple preventative measures:
Water Quality – The majority of issues are caused by poor water quality. Make sure the fish population is under control and don’t be afraid to do partial water changes often and consistently. The general formula for the quantity of fish in a pond is determined by the square feet of your pond and that means 1″ of mature fish per 1 square foot of garden. However, established gardens are sometimes able to handle 1.5″ to 2″ of MATURE FISH per 1 square foot of garden. Make sure when adding water or when doing a partial change that you treat the water with Pond Detoxifier to eliminate chlorine/chloramines and chelated heavy metals. Aerating pond water is also something that can potentially increase water quality dramatically. When speaking of mature fish, Koi can grow to 24 to 36 inches and most gold fish with fins get 6 to 9 inches. It takes close to five years for Koi to reach maturity.
Buy Your Fish from a Responsible Retailer – Never buy sick fish and, if possible, quarantine new fish for a few days to a week before adding them to your pond. Always ask how long the retailer has had the fish. If they have just received them in, ask the retailer to hold the fish for a few days to make sure the fish recovers from stress related to transport and new water chemistry.
Keep a Close Eye on Your Fish – If any signs of disease are seen, start using Pond Salt immediately and start feeding with medicated fish food. If things look like they are getting worse, immediately treat the pond with the appropriate treatment. The longer you wait to treat the problem, the less chance you have of saving your fish. Quarantine your sick fish.
Test Your Water – Test it yourself or have your local retailer test it for any signs of a problem. It is also important to test the water coming directly from your tap as it is increasingly common to have issues including ammonia coming directly from your water source. Click here for test kits.
Feed Your Fish a High-Quality Food – Feeding a high-quality food will not affect water quality and will ensure that your fish are getting all the vitamins and nutrients they need to maintain proper health.
Symptoms/Diagnosis/Treatments
Note Click here at TREATMENTS to see the products available to treat your sick fish. Isolating sick fish in a separate tank is the best approach since you can treat the fish more adequately and not affect the water quality.
THIS IS GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT TREATMENTS. YOU MAY HAVE TO RESEARCH FURTHER FOR THE EXACT TREATMENT YOU MAY NEED. SECURE ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FROM www.koivet.com Having access to a microscope is helpful.
Pond Salt information – Is a proven staple in the health care and maintenance of Koi. Pond salt maintained at a 0.2% solution will reduce fish stress and enhance their slime coat and will improve gill function. During periods of stress and disease, healthy gill function is disturbed. This can cause a loss of electrolytes, leading to serious health problems for fish. Pond Salt provides the essential electrolytes fish need to survive. In addition, a salt solution will do a great job at controlling certain protozoan parasites, such as Trichodina, Ich and Chilodonella. Caution: A>0.2% salt level may threaten some more tender aquatic plants.
Symptom: Erratic movement, flashing or rubbing on rocks and surfaces throughout the pond. Fish has white discoloration as if dusted with small white dots. May be flashing, like scratching gills.
Most Likely Diagnosis: Parasite Problem There are several type of parasites.
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt Treatment and Isolation
Targeted Treatment: There are several types of parasites. Removing with Tweezers is a simple solution however, there may be other types of treatments. Such as Parasite and Ich Treatment, Praziquantel Treatment, Using Medicated fish food helps.
Symptom: Growths that look like “cotton balls“. Fish may have white starburst on mouth or body. Loss of Appetite.
Most likely Diagnosis: Fungal infection
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt Treatment
Targeted Treatment: Aquascape Fungus Treatment
Symptom: Open Wounds or ulcers. Fish fins or tail has white discoloration on the edges, may be accompanied by red streaks in fins or tail. Sometimes appears as trailing slime. Fish may be lethargic or without appetite. May swim with fins or tail collapsed.
Most likely diagnosis: Could be Bacterial infection: Tail Rot, Body Slim
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt Treatment
Targeted Treatment: Ulcer & Bacterial Infection Treatment and Medicated Fish Food
Symptom: Red Streaks in the fins
Most Likely Diagnosis: Could be Bacterial Infection, Parasite Problem, Ammonia Poisoning
Solution:
General Treatment: Medicated Fish Food, Pond Salt and water change using Pond Detoxifier
Targeted Treatments: Parasite & Ich Treatment, Praziquantel Treatment, along with the general solution
Symptom: Fins appear to be rotting away
Most Likely Diagnosis: Fin Rot or Bacterial infection
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt
Targeted Treatments: Ulcer and Bacteria Treatment, Medicated Fish Food, Pond Salt
Symptom: Small white spots that look like salt stuck to the body of the fish
Most Lightly Diagnosis: Ich or Parasite problem
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt
Targeted Treatments: Parasite & Ich Treatment and Pond Salt
Symptom: Gasping at the surface of the water
Most Likely Diagnosis: Oxygen Depletion
Solution:
General Treatment: Aerate the pond & agitate the pond surface – Reduce fish load
Symptom: Bulging Eyes – hard to cure or no cure
Most Likely Diagnosis: Bacteria infection
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt
Targeted Treatments: Ulcer & Bacterial Treatment, Medicated Fish Food – Pond Salt
Symptom: Scales protruding from a swollen body like a pine cone
Most Likely Diagnosis: Dropsy – Bacterial Infection – Difficult to treat
Solution:
General Treatment: Difficult to treat: isolation and pond salt and/or treat the pond as a preventative measure
Targeted Treatment: Ulcer & Bacterial Infection Treatment and Pond Salt
Symptom: Difficulty swimming underwater floating at the surface upright
Most Likely Diagnosis: Swim Bladder Disease
Solution: If the fish is still feeding, feed fish with canned peas or Spirulina-based fish food
Symptom: Red or swollen gills
Most Likely Diagnosis: Parasite Problem
Solution:
General Treatment: Pond Salt
Targeted Treatment: Parasite & Ich Treatment, Praziquantel Treatment & Pond Salt
Information provided by Aquascape Inc
Remember: It is sometimes best to isolate the sick fish so that you can salt the holding tank with the proper solution and treat the sick fish and not the whole pond. Remember pond plants are sensitive to salt treatments.
Also you can additionally consult: www.koivet.com
Pond Salt Dosage Rates: 2 cups = 1.0 lbs. approx.
0.1% solution uses .83 lbs. of salt per 100 gallons of water
0.2% solution uses 1.67 lbs. of salt per 100 gallons of water
0.3% solution uses 2.5 lbs. of salt per 100 gallons of water
