Best Pond Pump Information 2021
Pumps keep the water in your pond healthy. They help evenly spread nutrients in the water to fish, plants and other aquatic life. Running water prevents stagnation and cuts down on algae and mosquitoes. Keeping the water moving ensures that oxygen levels are distributed throughout the pond. Pumps also provide power for a pond’s water features, like waterfalls and fountains.
This guide will help you learn about the best pond pumps for your garden.
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The best water pumps for your pond and its fountain or waterfall come in variety of types and styles. They include submersible, external, magnetic drive and direct drive. Each of these water garden pumps offers its own advantages.
Submersible Pumps: These pumps are designed to work while wholly submerged in water. Typically, they are installed in the deepest part of the pond. Submersible pumps can be placed either directly into your pond or in a skimmer box or pond vault.
- Easy to install.
- Work well in environments that capitalize on a natural setting.
- No need to camouflage the pump.
- Run very quietly so there’s no distracting noise in your garden.
- Submersible pumps can be used to drain your pond, if needed.
- Range in pumping size from 50 to 5,000 gallons per hour.
- Can generate higher energy costs than other pump types.
- For smaller ponds, submersible pumps are generally more economical.
Tip: Some submersible pumps use oil to operate. If the pump seal breaks and leaks harmful oil coolant into the water, fish can be hurt or killed. If you have fish or other aquatic life in your pond, you’ll want to look for a submersible model that does not use oil.
External Pumps: External pumps can move a high volume of water, yet usually have lower energy costs than submersible pumps. They are not as quiet as submersible pumps. They should be placed in a dry location near your pond. External pumps are a lot more complicated to install. However, they are generally more reliable.
- Available as self-priming pumps able to draw their own water.
- Can be loud, disturbing the quiet of your garden.
- Work well for larger ponds that are 1,000 gallons or more.
- Offer long-lasting performance and easy repair.
- Require less routine maintenance than submersible pumps.
Tip: Pumps that are not self-priming can burn out a motor if the power shuts off momentarily and then comes back on. Protect against this by installing a check valve.
Magnetic Drive: In a magnetic-drive pump, an electrical charge creates a magnetic field that causes the magnet on the impeller to rotate and pump water. Since they have no seals to wear out, they require little maintenance. Occasionally, you will need to clean the impeller and its chamber for the most efficient operation.
- Completely sealed. Magnetic-drive pumps do not require lubrication.
- Because they don’t contain oil, magnetic-drive pumps are safer for ponds with fish, since oil leaks don’t occur.
- Don’t generate high head heights. Magnetic-drive pumps are unable to lift pond water vertically, which you might need to supply water to a fountain. They are not the best water pumps for fountains.
- Work best in cleaner environments with little or no debris.
- Highly efficient and cost-effective.
Direct Drive: Direct-drive pumps have an enclosed motor that is powered by electricity, which turns the impeller shaft.
- Achieve significant head height, so they are able to move water vertically. They are among the best water pumps for fountains and waterfalls.
- Typically more expensive to operate.
- Push water rather than pulling it.
- Not easily repaired.
Tip: Some models seal the motor in an oil-filled shell with seals around the cord and impeller shaft. These are risky to use if you have a pond stocked with fish. There is an ever-present danger of water contamination if a leak occurs. Many newer pumps, however, feature alternative lubrication that is safe for fish. Look for oil-free models if you have fish or other aquatic life in your pond.
Pond Pump Calculations
Pond Pump Features
Understanding Lake Management
Not many years ago, the only products used for pond and lake management were chemicals like copper sulfate. Although you get short-term results with these products, they are Reactive in nature and will not provide long-term results when used exclusively. The problem with Reactive approach to pond management is that the longer you practice it, the less effective it becomes. Algae, poor water clarity, aquatic weeds and muck are all a result of a true problem – nutrients, and if not addressed, you will never really be happy with your pond. If left to Mother Nature, you will eventually be left with a swamp or wetland filled with aquatic weeds, algae and muck, ultimately eliminating most recreational activities. But you can stop and reverse this process by using the following products. Read on…
4-Steps to the Perfect Ecosystem
Did you know?
The first step to understanding how to maintain your pond is to know about your ponds life cycle. The Life Cycle can be broken down into two basic stages.
During Stage 1 organic matter from plants, birds, animals and debris begins to accumulate in your pond. The nutrient load is low, resulting in minimal weed and algae growth. The amount of debris your pond receives and the type of soil your pond was constructed from will determine how long your pond will stay in this stage. Generally your pond will begin to enter Stage 2 in three to five years.
As your pond begins Stage 2 excessive algae blooms and pond weeds become noticeable. Emergent plants, such as grasses and cattails, begin growing around your pond’s edge.
As Stage 2 continues the total nutrient load is increased resulting in more frequent weed and algae growth.
Every Unaerated Pond and Lake, at least 6’Deep, is Thermally Stratified?
Pond Bottom: Water is colder with lower oxygen levels and is home to most of the toxic gasses that accumulate in a pond.
Pond Surface: Water is warmer with higher oxygen levels and is home to the majority of the pond’s fish population.
PROBLEM: Thermal Stratification can contribute to high levels of muck, cloudy water and is one of the main causes of winter fish kill.
When the Airmax®: Ecosystem is not present and Mother Nature is allowed to take her course, chemical applications will be necessary during this stage.
It is important to understand that chemicals are not designed to prevent growth because they will not eliminate the nutrients that cause weeds and algae to grow. When chemicals are used correctly, they will only provide a temporary fix to weed and algae growth. The next step is aeration and bacteria.
Aeration Benefits
- Clean and clear water column
- Elimination of thermal stratification
- Reduced sediment
- Stronger and more productive fish population
- Elimination of fish kills and turnover
What is stratification?
Most ponds suffer from stratification or “layered water” during the warmer months of the year. Stratification happens when the sun heats up the water at the top of your pond. The warm water is lighter and creates a layer that floats on the cooler water underneath. The point at which these layers will separate is known as the thermocline.
In the fall and winter months, the cold air will cool the surface of your pond, causing turnover or a mixing of the surface and subsurface water. If you have ever noticed a strong sulfurous smell near your pond in the spring or fall, it is a good bet that your pond has just turned over! Severe storms can also cause this to happen.
The Airmax® Advantage
The diffuser delivers the much needed oxygen to the target zone (the nutrient rich bottom layer) creating an efficient and healthy ecosystem.
Airmax aeration systems are designed to be very low maintenance. Simply clean the air filter every 4 to 6 months. Depending upon environmental conditions, air stones may need to be cleaned every 2 to 3 years, that’s all! Some of the newer air stones are self cleaning
Lake Management – Understanding Water Quality
The bacteria currently working in your pond are mainly anaerobic, meaning they do not require oxygen to survive. Anaerobic bacteria will decompose organics at an extremely slow rate while producing by products such as a “rotten egg” smell and black muck. Anaerobic bacteria are also relatively ineffective at oxidizing nutrients suspended in the water column.
Aerobic bacteria found in Pond Clear TM require oxygen and are capable of decomposing organics at an accelerated rate. They produce no foul smelling by-products, and do not contribute to black muck. Aerobic bacteria will result in clear water and a healthy ecosystem.
Lake Management – Use of Chemicals
Aquatic Herbicides and Algaecides(chemicals) have been useful tools for pond management for decades.
Once a pond becomes infested with weeds and/or algae, a chemical application may be your best solution to gain control, at least for the short-term. The use of chemicals may be minimized or avoided when contributing factors are reduced.
The problem is an abundance of suspended nutrients and the organics (muck) that have settled to the bottom of your pond. Contributing factors can be a number of different things such as surface water runoff, grass clippings and fertilizers just to mention a few.
Some pond owners go as far as treating their ponds once a week with chemicals to manage their weed and/or algae problem. If you are in this group that is a problem! Not only is it more expensive, it is adding to your problem…every time weeds and algae are treated they fall to the bottom only to breakdown and encourage future growth.
Use chemical only as a tool in your management practice.
Chemicals are an important part of any management plan as long as they are not the entire plan. Another important consideration when treating for weeds and algae is that sudden changes to water conditions can affect the ecosystem and aquatic life.
Always remember to run your aeration system before and after chemical applications. This will increase oxygen levels and enhance the effectiveness of the application.
Call 877 780-1174 to discuss the potential treatments you may want to use for various pond weeds. We can help you decide what products you may want to use.
Airmax® Aeration to the rescue
Our aeration system utilizes a shore-mounted air pump that delivers compressed air to a synergistic diffuser plate on the pond’s bottom. As the air rises from the diffuser plate at the bottom, it creates a convection current that slowly and steadily turns the water body over. Bringing the bottom waters up to the top to interact with the atmosphere allows for some very unique processes to take place. It is this turnover and interaction that lies at the heart of the Airmax® Aeration System.
Clean and Clear Water Column
Heavy nutrient loads lay the groundwork for extreme algae blooms. The constant turnover created by the Aeration System provides an avenue for oxygen-consuming beneficial bacteria to lower nutrient loads. The increase in bacterial activity removes the food source for nuisance algae and plants.
Elimination of Thermal Stratification
The current created by the Airmax® Aeration System circulates the water eliminating the thermocline (water separated into multiple layers based on temperature). When the thermocline is eliminated, oxygen is allowed to the pond’s bottom, creating a perfect ecosystem for aerobic beneficial bacteria such as those found in PondClear™ and MuckAway™. The bacteria in these products will work to clarify the water while reducing the muck layer on the pond’s bottom.
Stronger, Safer Fish Population
In a thermally stratified state, the bottom half of your pond becomes almost uninhabitable to fish. The low oxygen and high amount of toxins drive your fish into the much warmer top half of the pond. The Airmax® Aeration System de-stratifies the water column, creating optimal conditions for fish to inhabit the entire body of water reducing the chance of fish kills caused by turn over.
Preventing Winter Fish Kill
Keeping the aerator running in colder climates (where an ice layer may form) will greatly reduce the chances of a winter fish kill. Dying or dead vegetation will cause toxic gasses to build up underneath the ice during the winter months. These toxic gasses can displace the oxygen causing a winter fish kill. Circulating the water column will also maintain an open hole in the ice, allowing the toxic gasses to safely escape.
Calculating Pond Size
Square Footage = Length X Width
Acre Feet = Surface Acres X Average Depth
To figure the Acres
Circle Shape – 3.14 X Radius X Radius divided by 43.560 which = Surface acres
Square/Rectangle – Length X Width divided by 43.560 = Surface acres
Triangle – 0.5 X Height X Base divided by 43.560 = Surface acres
Call 877 780-1174 if you have any questions or need us to figure what products you may need for your lake.
Aquascapes.com
Pondless® Waterfalls
The hottest tread in landscaping! We have the equipment available for the do-it-yourself installer or the pro installer who wants to purchase and install a Pondless® Waterfall.
What is a Pondless waterfall?
Yes it is what you think it is a waterfall with no pond and no fish. You know not everyone wants a pond with the maintenance of plants and fish but everyone enjoys a great looking waterfall with the serene sound of water to ease the tensions of our busy workdays.
Advantages of the Pondless Waterfall
- Fits into small spaces.
- Perfect for people where child safety or the liabilities of a pond may be a concern.
- Virtually maintenance free! Simple refill the reservoir every week or add water automatically with an auto fill valve.
- Great alternative for a front yard pond.
- No ecological need to run the system continuously. Can be shut off with a timer or shut down during vacation time.
- No fish to maintain or be concerned about.
What would I want a Pondless® Waterfall?
Do you have memories of a gorgeous mountain stream and waterfalls you saw as a child on your walks in the woods? You can still hear the water as it gushes over the rocky stream and hits against the wet rocks. Imagine that you can receive this picture in your very own backyard. It’s perfect for those who want the sound of water but not the maintenance of a pond. If you live in the Ohio Valley area, call Meyer Aquascapes for an estimate 877 780-1174.
Where does the water come from and where does it go?
A Pondless waterfall actually works much like the equipment in a pond. A basin, usually deeper than a pond, is dug and then underlayment and liner is put down in this basin. Then we figure up how many matrix boxes you will need according to the size of the basin. Water Matrix boxes are snap together sides that form a spacer in the basin and these spacers allow your basin to hold more water in the basin. This means less maintenance of filling because of evaporation loss while saving on the amount of boulders in the basin. You can hold up to 7 times more water. Matrix boxes are essential equipment in order to have a basin large enough to accomodate the stream.
The basin also hold a Pump Vault which houses the pump and check valve, centipede which helps direct the water to the pump. We do recommend that you order extra underlayment so that you can wrap the matrix boxes and/or cover them so that the rock and gravel will not fall through. Then the rock is placed on top of the water matrix boxes and topped with decorative gravel.
The pipe is connected to the pump and heads up hill to the waterfall box. This box aids in the ease with designing a waterfall. The liner of the stream is attached to this box and you build your waterfall and stream from here.
So as an overview, your pump housed in the pump vault which pumps water up to the waterfall box which then flows down the stream into the basin and completely re-circulating system. Since the water level in the reservoir basin never pools above the level of the rock and gravel fill, it gives the appearance of a Pondless® Waterfall.
Pondless: Winterizing Pondless Waterfalls
This is very important information.
It has been recommended by the manufacturer that those of you who live in Zone 1 (very north) to Zone 6 (parts of the east, Northern parts of the south, mountain areas) should remove the pump in the Pondless. And if you have a checkvalve, release the checkvalve from the pipe and then remove the pump with the checkvalve attached. If you leave the pump in the skimmer and want to turn it off, don’t forget to disconnect the check valve (if you have one) from the pipe. Check valves have been known to freeze causing a leak in the spring which makes the falls appear to have a lot less water flowing. This also assures you that the pipe has been emptied.
Hint: It is not always necessary to use a check valve with the pondless system. The pipe can directly connect to the pump. Some of the older systems do have check valves so check your system to see whether you need to disconnect or not. However, if you have a long stream and a powerful pump, you may want to install a check valve which keeps the water from back flushing your system which could damage the impeller of the pump.
Pump should be submerged in water in an area that will not freeze.
If you leave your pondless running, and I know it can create beautiful ice sculptures but you will have to replenish the water very often. You lose more water in the winter than in the summer. If your pondless gets low, it will suck the pump dry and will damage it.
If you live in milder areas of the country, you can just disconnect the check valve from the pipe and leave the pump in the water as long as the freeze line will not reach the actual pump. If the pump would freeze it could damage to the pump and will cause the check valve to crack. It is best sometimes to make the decision early so you are not dealing with a frozen basin. The checkvalve will freeze first since it is close to the surface.
So in a nut shell, the advice is to shut the pondless down and remove the pump in all climates except those that do not get below 20 degrees and where a freeze only lasts a few days. Remember when running, your basin still needs water.
Happy Pondering,
Aquascapes.com
877 780-1174
info@aquascapes.com
Troubleshooting Leaks in Your Pond/Pondless Waterfall
Does your pond actually have a leak?
You may not realize how much water can evaporate from a pond during the dog days of summer.
The midwestern states typically lose 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water each week. In Arizona for example, it is reported that evaporation rates are in excess of 3 inch a week.
These are averages. Some ponds may not experience evaporation levels this high, while other ponds with large pumps pushing high volumes of water or ponds with multiple waterfalls and lots of cascades and splashing on rocks, have higher evaporation rates. The larger the pump gph the more water you can lose.
Do not try to investigate a leak if the ground is wet from a rainfall.
1. The most common leak is one that is created from low edges. Here’s a little secret,99% of all leaks are not due to a hole in the liner. Settling at the pond’s edge is the most frequent cause especially in new ponds. Look around the stream and waterfall for areas that have settled. Look for wet mulch or wet gravel along the edge.
How to fix a low edge?
Simply build back up by backfilling and compacting the soil beneath the liner. Thus raising the edge of the liner above the water level.
2. Look for obstructions in the stream and waterfalls. If you have adjusted some of the rocks to improve the look you may have caused some of the water to be diverted over the liner. Also look for excessive plant or algae growth in the stream allowing water to make it over the edge. If you use Hyacinth in the biological filter, remove some occasionally as the volume of plants raises the water level and will allow some water to leak over the back or side edge of the BioFalls.
3. Can’t find the leak yet?
Shut down the pump and leave it for 12 or more hours. After 12 hours check to see if the water level has dropped. We recommend you use a small aerator to provide oxygen to the fish.
If it has dropped, you now know the leak is in the pond. If it remains the same, it is in the stream or waterfall. Read on..
If the leak is in the pond.
Leave the pump off and wait until the water level stops dropping. This could take several days. This will determine the height of the leak. If the water level stopped below the bottom of the skimmer face plate, you can rule out the skimmer and concentrate elsewhere. If the water level is above the bottom of the face plate, you should investigate the skimmer. It may have not been sealed properly or if sytem is over 5 years old, it may be time to reseal the skimmer to the liner. But don’t tear apart the skimmer face plate yet.
If the Leak is in the Skimmer.
At this point you may want to call the contractor who installed the pond. However, if you are brave enough to search further, then read on.
Investigate the skimmer face plate without disassembling it. Simple move a few rocks around the front of the skimmer and slide you hand behind the liner. Feel for wet soil around the opening of the skimmer.
—If it is dry, it is most likely not the skimmer.
–If the soil is saturated, then the face plate may NOT have been installed properly and might be the source of the leak.
–Remove the face plate, clean all of the old silicone off the liner with a plastic scrubber and refer back to the instructional manual on proper procedures for sealing the skimmer face plate to the skimmer. Use Black Silicone to seal the skimmer to the liner.
If it’s not the Skimmer.
Investigate the liner for small punctures around the perimeter of the pond where the water level has stopped.
The only way to find this type of leak is to move rocks and gravel and search by hand and eye. If the leak is found, you can fix it using the Patch Tape.
Is the leak in the Biofalls or Waterfall?
If your water level did not drop over the past 12 hours, this immediately tells you that the pond is not the source of the leak.
First, turn the pump back on and get the water flowing.
Double check that all the edges are high, and any stream liner overlaps into the pond properly. Or if you had installed with liner seams, check this area out.
Check the seal on the lip of the Biofalls. Again, simply move a few rocks and dirt if necessary to allow your hand to slide behind the liner. Feel for wet soil.
If it is dry, it is most likely not the Biofall seal to the liner.
If it is saturated, or you feel water leaking, then the lip needs to be resealed.
Cause of leaks at the Biofall seal.
1. Seal was done incorrectly or the liner was stretched or pulled too tight while setting rocks for the waterfalls. Also, after 5 years, it is possible your seal has deteriorated and needs to be taken apart and resealed.
2. Always make sure you allow some extra liner along the front of the Biofalls to prevent stress on the Biofall seal.
If necessary, reseal the Biofalls by removing the lip. Clean all of the old silicone and waterfall foam off the liner and refer back to the manual as to the proper procedure for sealing.
Still can’t find the leak!
Investigate the rest of the stream and waterfall. At this point, you should be looking for a hole in the liner.
If you have a long stream, you can divert the water using a hose and begin running water from the hose down the course 5 feet from the pond. Watch the water level, if level has not dropped then move the hose 5 feet more up the course. And you do this until you see a drop and can isolate the leak to a specified 5 foot area.
Still can’t find the leak, are you sure it was not evaporation. Just kidding, of course. It may be time to call that contractor.
Hope you find that leak!!!
Aquascapes.com
