Pond Installation – A Quick Review
Pond Installation as of 9/8/24 – Adding a pond to your backyard or garden can create a serene, natural escape right at home. Whether you envision a tranquil koi pond, a cascading waterfall, or a peaceful reflecting pool, pond installation can dramatically enhance your outdoor space. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about pond installation, from planning and design to maintenance and care.
Why Install a Pond?
Ponds offer numerous benefits, both aesthetic and functional. Here’s why you might consider installing one:
- Enhances Visual Appeal: A well-designed pond adds beauty and elegance to your garden, creating a focal point that draws the eye.
- Creates a Relaxing Atmosphere: The sound of flowing water and the sight of fish swimming can help reduce stress and promote relaxation.
- Supports Wildlife: Ponds provide habitat for various species, including fish, amphibians, and beneficial insects, fostering biodiversity.
- Improves Property Value: A professionally installed pond can increase the value of your property by enhancing its overall appeal.
Planning Your Pond Installation
Before diving into the installation process, careful planning is crucial to ensure your pond meets your expectations and fits well within your space. Here’s how to get started:
- Determine the Purpose and Style Consider what you want from your pond. Are you interested in a koi pond, a naturalistic water garden, or a simple reflecting pool? Each type of pond has different requirements and design elements. Decide on the style and purpose to guide your planning.
- Choose the Location Select a spot in your garden that gets a good balance of sun and shade. Too much sun can encourage algae growth, while too much shade can affect plant growth. Ensure the location is easily accessible for maintenance and away from large trees that could drop leaves and debris into the pond.
- Size and Depth Determine the size and depth based on your space and the type of pond you want. Koi ponds, for instance, need to be deeper to accommodate the fish and provide adequate water volume. A small, shallow pond may suffice for a simple water feature.
- Plan the Design Sketch out your pond design, including any additional features such as waterfalls, fountains, or stream beds. Consider how these elements will integrate with the surrounding landscape and complement your garden’s overall design.
- Budgeting Establish a budget for your pond project. Costs can vary widely based on size, complexity, and the quality of materials used. Include expenses for installation, equipment, plants, and any additional features.
Pond Installation Process
Once you’ve planned your pond, the next step is the installation. Here’s a general overview of the process:
- Excavation Begin by excavating the pond area according to your design. The depth and shape of the excavation will depend on the type of pond you’re installing. Ensure the edges are smooth and the base is level.
- Lining the Pond A pond liner is essential to prevent water leakage. There are various types of liners available, including flexible rubber liners and pre-formed rigid liners. Lay the liner carefully, smoothing out any wrinkles and ensuring it fits snugly against the pond edges.
- Installing Equipment Install necessary equipment such as pumps, filters, and skimmers. Proper installation is crucial for maintaining water quality and circulation. Position the equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions for optimal performance.
- Adding Water and Testing Fill the pond with water and test the system to ensure everything is functioning correctly. Check for leaks and make adjustments as needed. Allow the pond to settle for a few days before introducing any plants or fish.
- Landscaping Enhance the pond area with landscaping elements such as rocks, plants, and mulch. This not only improves the visual appeal but also helps to blend the pond seamlessly into your garden.
Maintaining Your Pond
Proper maintenance is key to keeping your pond healthy and attractive. Here are some tips for ongoing care:
- Regular Cleaning Remove debris such as leaves and algae regularly to keep the water clean. Use a pond net or vacuum to clean the pond floor and maintain the filtration system.
- Monitor Water Quality Check the water quality periodically, including pH levels, ammonia, and nitrate levels. Proper water balance is crucial for the health of your fish and plants.
- Seasonal Care Adjust your maintenance routine according to the seasons. In winter, you may need to use a pond heater or de-icer to prevent freezing. In spring and summer, focus on controlling algae growth and ensuring proper plant care.
- Inspect Equipment Regularly inspect and clean your pond equipment, including pumps and filters, to ensure they are functioning properly. Replace any worn or damaged parts as needed.
Pond installation is a rewarding project that can enhance the beauty and tranquility of your outdoor space. By carefully planning, choosing the right materials, and following proper installation procedures, you can create a stunning pond that will be a source of enjoyment for years to come. Remember to consider ongoing maintenance to keep your pond in top condition and continue to appreciate its natural beauty.
Ready to transform your garden with a beautiful pond? Start by researching pond installation services or explore DIY options to bring your vision to life. With the right planning and care, your pond will become a cherished feature of your outdoor oasis.
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Facts: H2O – Oxygen in your Pond
You know that your pond needs oxygen in the water but do you know how much and how often?
Oxygenation is the process in which oxygen is diffused into the water. This process happens every time your water comes into contact with the air.
If there is no aeration in a pond, the pond cannot exchange gasses at the deeper levels of the pond and can only exchange gases at the water surface and therefore, will support only a few fish. Ponds deeper than 3 feet will benefit from a bottom aerator in the summer, especially if this pond is a koi pond.
A pond needs to absorb oxygen from the air and it also needs to release carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide among other gases.
Hydrogen sulfide is one of these gasses that contribute to breaking down organic matter in the bottom of the pond. The pond bottom has less oxygen than the upper layers of a pond.
When you use a biological filter or a fountain or have a stream, you increase the surface that is exposed to the atmosphere. Harmful gasses can be released and oxygen absorbed.
Is something wrong with my fish when they swim up near the waterfall and roll around in the area?
They are getting oxygen created by the bubbles that generated from the waterfall. This is a fix of higher concentrated oxygenated water.
But on the other hand, if you see your fish “gasping for air” at the water’s surface, “they may be lacking enough oxygen in the water”.
What is the role of plants in the oxygen supply to a pond?
Plants should only cover 50% to 60% of your pond surface. If you have too many plants in a pond and the entire surface is covered you will have very little gas exchange unless you have a very large waterfall and/or stream.
Adding submergible oxygenator plants (such as Anacharis or Hornwort) will add oxygen to the water but while they add oxygen during the daylight, they use up the available oxygen at night the same as other plant life in the pond.
Anacharis is an important submergible plant as it uses up nutrients that starve out the algae. Go to planning your pond to see how many Anacharis plants you need for your size pond.
Rarely does one overstock with oxygenators, but if in the morning you see your fish gasping for air, you may need to remove some of your oxygenators. The oxygenators may be taking too much of the oxygen over night. Removing too many at once is not good either since it may upset the balance of your pond. Remember plants remove the oxygen in the pond at night.
Oxygenators are the utility player in the roster of pond plants as they serve as a natural filter, a hiding place for fish, an algal combatant and they look good while doing it all.
Suggested oxygenators: Anacharis, Hornwort, Cabomba, Parrot Feather, and Mosiac Plant. The submerged ones create the most oxygen.
How do fish enter into the oxygen issue?
There is a limit to the number of fish that you can keep in a pond before you compromise the quality of your pond water. When you exceed this number you start having problems with water quality and fish health. Usually it is recommended to have 1 inch of fish (mature size) per 1 square foot of surface area of your pond. Stock lighter in the beginning and gradually add more fish but never stocking more than 1.5 inches to 1 square foot.
How does the temperature of my pond water affect the oxygen supply?
The hotter the water the less oxygen it can hold, therefore cold water holds much more oxygen. Using a small bubbler or aerator adds enough oxygen for most size ponds in the winter. Fish do not require a lot of oxygen in the winter because of hibernation. Warm water has a low capacity for holding oxygen, while cooler water can hold gigantic amounts of oxygen. Warm water and increased activity go hand and hand, and that increased activity means fish require more oxygen.
Stressed fish often begin to develop diseases. If you live in a very warm climate, you might consider stocking with more tropical fish like the swordtail or tilapia rather than coldwater fish.
Also if you live in a hot zone, it is sometimes advised to do a partial water exchange when you water temperature gets high (over 80 degrees). Don’t forget to dechlorinator or use a water conditioner for any city water. You can also add an additional bubbler that will increase the oxygen level of your pond.
To keep your oxygen flow at a healthy level, you need to keep a watch on the amount of plants and fish in your pond. Plants should cover no more than 60% of your pond. Remember fish will produce more fish so start with fewer fish in the beginning.
If you ever have to shut down your pump for any length of time, aeration is vitally important for the life of your fish. In hot weather, your fish could be in danger with a pump failure. It is always wise to keep a bubbler or aerator on hand just in case. In very hot climates where the water is very warm, fish can die within a few hours without oxygen.AquaForceTM Solids Handling Pump. This pump has a three year warranty and can be used for winterizing or in hot weather to provide additional oxygen to the fish. Comes in two sizes 1000 GPH, and 2000 GPH. And best of all it cost between $3.65 to $8.03 to run.
A back up pump is always a good thing to have.
A good recommendation is the
Call customer service at 877 780-1174 if you have questions.
Happy Pondering,
Aquascapes.com
Facts: About Pumps
Not many people want to be involved in the mechanics of a pump because it can be too difficult to understand. But if you learn just a little it will help you understand the living, breathing ecosystem that is your pond.
Pumps and plumbing make up the circulatory system of a water feature. More important, they supply the system with necessary oxygen and keep the water circulating.
Water garden vocabulary:
GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) is designed to protect people and pets from severe or fatal electric shocks.
GPH – Gallons per hour. Means the gallons that the pump is circulating every hour and can be referred to as rated flow. Small to average water gardens and Koi ponds need to circulate every hour with a full exchange of the water in that hour. Larger gardens every 1 1/2 hour exchange.
GPM – Gallons per minute.
Pond Volume – The amount of water in a pond.
Formula for calculating the gallons in your pond.
- Irregular Pond = length x width x average depth x 7.48
- Circular Pond gallons = 3.14 x r2 x average depth x 7.48
Head Height – The height from the surface of the pond to where the water comes into the biofalls (usually at the bottom of the unit), which means the amount of elevation change a pump can take to pump water.
TDH (Total Dynamic Head) – The combination of the total height and the total run a pump has to push. Total dynamic head refers to the pressure on a pump caused by the interactions of flow rate, pipe diameter, pipe length, elevation, and pipe material.
The other contributing factor to the size pump you will need is the width of the waterfall when it enters the pond. You will need 1500 to 2000 GPH in a pump for each foot of stream width at the entry point into the pond basin. Large systems sometimes require 3000 GPH per foot especially if you want white water.
Basically, it takes all those things into account and lets you know the limitation of your pump.
Flow Rates – The amount of water moving in a given time period.
Mag Drive – Type of pump that relies on magnetic forces to drive the impeller. Pumps a smaller amount of water than direct drive pumps, but are more efficient and usually used for fountains and small basin applications.
Direct Drive – Type of pump in which a motor drives a shaft that spins the impeller. More durable than a mag drive and usually used to provide water to a waterfall.
Watts – Electrical power consumption of a motor. Watts = volts x amps
Amps – The rate of flow of an electrical current.
Check Valve – Valve that prevents water from back flushing from the BioFalls to the skimmer where the pump is located.
PVC (poly vinyl chloride) – A common thermoplastic resin.
All of the Aquascape and AquascapePro line of pumps are made specifically for water gardens. They are submersible pumps which also need to be placed in a skimmer or wet well.
Specifications can mean the difference between a gushing waterfall and a trickle that sounds merely like a leaky faucet.
Operating Cost
Look for high efficient pumps. Obviously the bigger the pump is, the larger your operating cost per month can be. High efficiency pumps use less power.
Waterfalls and Pump size
Establishing the flow rate for your pond is probably the most important thing to do when it comes to your waterfall.
Experts say that for each foot of spillway width as it enters the basin, you should allow 1500 to 2000 GPH. For example, a 2 foot waterfall width usually requires between a 3000 gph to a 4000 gph pump.
Then, there is the waterfall and stream height to factor in and the term, shut off height, comes into play. Most people believe that a pump rated at 3000 gph will always push that amount of water. But once you subject your pump to higher waterfalls or longer streams, it will push less water. Once it hits that shut off height, you are not going to get any more water.
Call us a 877-780-1174 if you have any doubt in the size pump you may need.
Plumbing
Plumbing used with pumps is also an important part of the equation. Using the wrong plumbing can cause friction, hindering the performance of your pump and affecting the power of your waterfall.
We believe that the Flexible PVC is the best for pond projects. It will handle sharp turns and tight corners and also expands and contracts with seasonal changes.
…1.5 inch pipe has a maximum flow rate of 2200 GPH
…2 inch pipe has a maximum fow rate of 4800 GPH
So you can see that pipe selection is very important.
Check Valve
The check valve helps prevent water from back flushing into the pond when the power to your pump is cut. The reason this is important is because you need to keep water in your biological filter so that the beneficial bacteria can continue to grow. The bacteria will die in two hours without water.
Other terms
Discharge – The opening of the pump where the water is expelled.
Impeller – The part of the pump that pushes the water. It generally has fins or blades.
Shaft – The shaft is what spins the impeller. It is generally located inside the motor housing.
Motor – The motor is what drives the pump. The shaft attaches to the motor.
Impeller Housing – This is where the impeller sits and is allowed to spin.
Now you really know how that pump works.
Planning: Sizing Your Pump!
Minimize friction losses by using large diameter pipe. Determine the approximate flow rate that you want, the head height, and the total length of pipe. Consult a Friction Loss Chart to choose the proper diameter pipe.
You can calculate your total head at www.pump-world.com. You will need to know the following:
- The overall height
- The pipe run and diameter of pipe
- The maximum rated flow for the pump
The size of the pump’s suction and discharge ports DO NOT dictate your proper pipe size. Choose a pipe diameter that keeps your friction loss below about 6 feet per 100 feet of pipe. The longer your run of pipe, the more critical it is to minimize your friction loss. Normally, a minimum of 2 inch line is suggested for systems with flow rates from 30 to 50 gallons per minute or 1800 to 3000 gallons per hour.
Use a filtration system that DOES NOT require a lot of pressure. It costs MONEY to create pressure. Biological filters and BIOFALLS® filters work well and require no pressure.
Pipe Diameter Max GPH
1.5 inches……………….. 2,200
2 inch……………………… 4,800
Two 2 inch pipe……….. 9,600
3 inch……………………..10,500
Remember to consider the width of your stream when it enters the pond. You will need 1500 to 2000 GPH for each foot of stream when it comes into the pond.
NEVER run a pump dry. This will damage the seal and impeller. They are designed to pump water, not air. Insure the pump is submerged in water before you turn it on, and be sure it does not out-pump the supply.
If your pump is producing too much flow, you can reduce the flow by partially closing a valve (Ball valve) on the discharge line near its outlet (NEVER RESTRICT THE INLET). Also never restrict more than a quarter turn.
If more flow is required than a single pump can produce, use two or more pumps. This also offers the benefits of being able to vary the flow rates; this can often save a substantial amount of electricity compared to using one very large pump.
Choose a pump that can give you the required flows at the lowest possible AMP draw.
If you have any further questions, please send to info@aquascapes.com
Aquascapes.com
877 780-1174
The Pond’s Ecosystem
What is an ecosystem?
An ecosystem encompasses all the parts of a living environment, including the plants and animals, AND the non-living components, such as water, air and the sun’s energy. A pond‘s ecosystem begins with the water as the base. Everything found above the base is completely dependent, either directly or indirectly, on water.
Biological filters work to create an ecosystem by using bacteria to break down pond wastes, converting them into harmless particles that will be used as aquatic plant fertilizers. Housed inside the biological filter are from one to three filter mats. The filter mats will aid in the building of a bacteria colony. To add additional media, we recommend that you install several sets the BioBalls inside this unit. Again depending on the size of the biological filter you will need from one to four sets. Both of these types of media will allow the bacteria colony to grow and mature.
In the past, people have used the Lava Rocks in mesh bags on top of these mats. We have found, in our research that the lava rocks will eventually clog and recommend they be replaced every two years. These rocks are also heavy and cumbersome to remove and clean. BioBalls are easier to handle and will hold more good bacteria. To guarantee that you have seeded the bacteria into the filter media in the Biofalls, it is important to use the beneficial bacteria on the start up of your system in the spring and continue to use on a regular basis throughout the growing season.
The primary goal of a biological filter is to reduce the level of nitrogen compounds in the water in order to maintain the balance of the pond and limit algae and pathogenic growth. Water quality can be threatened by natural ground water run off, decaying plant particles and too many fish. Uncontrolled algae growth can have serious consequences for the entire pond apart from the unpleasant appearance.
The IonGen™ is an electronic clarifier for ponds and Pondless features. By clicking on the product you will be brought to the product and you can read the description. This product saves the cost of using algaecides. This product is now registered with EPA as a product that will eliminate string algae. However, you still have to use some type of bacteria during the growing season to keep a pond water clear. The IonGen™ saves you time and money!
The biological filter is also the source of your waterfall and/or stream. Besides being the source of the good bacteria colony, it also works for you by making it easier to build a great waterfall. Remember to order your bacteria in the spring so you are ready for the growth season. Go here to look at the various types of bacteria:
How does the biological filtration work?
The water is pumped through the biological filter unit, through the filter media and microscopic bacteria located in this media go to work scrubbing the pond clean of green water. Lava Rock or BioBalls are located in this unit. By combining both mechanical and biological filtration, the Ecosystem does the maintenance for you, reducing your work and increasing your enjoyment.
Mechanical Filter called the Skimmer
The purpose of this filter is to skim the water and deposit the surface debris into a basket or net for easy maintenance. It also protects the pump with a filter mat located either in front of or on top of the pump thus cleaning the water before it is drawn into the pump. The debris net or basket needs to be emptied regularly. Note: The weir door on the Signature Series is a separate part and does not come with the basket.
Weir Doors can be ordered but you need to know which skimmer and the size of the weir opening. Call 877 780-1174 if you have questions.
Other Necessary Parts to the EcoSystem
▪ Pump and Plumbing – Recirculation of a closed water feature is essential to add oxygen to the water for fish and bacteria. It keeps it fresh and allows gasses to escape. You want to circulate the volume of water in your feature approximately every hour. The pump supplies the water to the biological filter which in turn spills over into the waterfall.
▪ Rocks and Gravel – The most under used element in a pond ecosystem is rock and gravel. Rocks are instrumental in protecting your liner from harmful ultraviolet rays as well as helping to prevent hydrostatic bubbling. Rocks and gravel throughout the bottom also provide the perfect areas for bacteria to colonize thereby keeping water clearer. Do you ever see an aquarium without gravel on the bottom? Cover the liner completely with rocks and gravel. Never use more than 2 to 3 inches of gravel on flat areas.
▪ Plants, Fish and Bacteria– Plants absorb the nutrients from the water as fertilizer. The bacteria in your colony will eat the excess nutrients that the plants haven’t absorbed and if these excess nutrients are not absorbed, they might feed green water. That’s why plants are very important to the ecosystem. Plants provide beauty and a nature look to your pond while the bacteria will help remove ammonia, nitrates and other minerals from the water and converting them to useful nutrients. Fish provide some balance the equation but you must not overstock your pond. Overstocking is the number one cause of excess algae. Adding bacteria on a regular basis, is one of the best things you can do for your pond to enhance the quality of your pond water.
The calculation for amount fish in a pond is: length x width of pond = square feet and that number is the inches of mature fish your pond can support. A 10 x 10 pond supports 100 inches of fish. Don’t forget that if you are a new pond owner, the fish will multiply and you may end up with more fish that you should have in order to have a balanced ecosystem.
Filter efficiency Facts
1. Circulation requirements:
Ponds with KOI – re-circulate total pond volume at least once per hour. Also, consider adding an additional aerator at the bottom of the pond.
2. Volume of pond
Average width x average length x average dept x 7.5 = volume of water in gallons.
3. Fish stocking guidelines (bio-load capacity)
For every square foot of pond surface you can support one inch of mature fish.
4. When you use a biological filter and a skimmer filter and have adequate aeration, we don’t normally recommend testing the water unless you have an excess of fish and have not used the four basic ecosystem requirements which is rocks, fish, plants, and aeration. If your pond has a heavy fish load, you may want to test your water for ammonia.
Clarity of water does not always mean quality. To monitor your fish environment especially if you have more fish than the ratio, you may want to test periodically:
…Ammonia
…Nitrate
…pH
…Oxygen
…Temperature
Ammonia – a reading of more than 0.25 ppm will put your fish into stress; make immediate water change of 33% and than re-test ammonia level. If too high, make another 33% water change. Adding bacteria twice weekly or at least once a week will help reduce ammonia load. When doing water exchanges don’t forget to add the pond Detoxifier to the water.
pH – should range between 7.2 and 7.6. When you test the pH, run the test at the same time of day in the a.m. as pH fluctuates during the day. High pH is not necessarily dangerous unless the ammonia count is also high.
Temperature – ideal range is between 72 and 78 degrees. Less or greater can reduce biological activity. Over 80 to 85 degree water could be harmful on your fish.
5. Aquatic plants should be used and added in your pond for nitrate absorption; examples include water lilies, bog plants and water hyacinth placed in the BIOFALLS® filter and streams. See the charts on Planting Your Pond.
Happy pondering,
Aquascapes.com
877 780-1174
Meyer Aquascapes